1996 Chrysler Sebring radio, wipers, turn signals, seat bel

Hi jmikekim. Welcome to the forum. I've repaired hundreds of radios for this problem, but it sounds like your radio is just one more symptom of the main problem. Suspect burned contacts inside the ignition switch or overheated terminals in its electrical connector. If the terminals have been overheated, they can be cut out of the plastic housing and new ones can be inserted individually. About four inches of the wire should be replaced too. The overheated part will be hardened and almost impossible to solder to.

You can use crimp-type replacement terminals but they should also be soldered to provide the best possible connection. If the connector body is not melted and the terminals are not discolored, just replace the switch. Normally tests should be performed first to be sure it's really the problem. If you want to do that, I'll find the colors of the wires to test.

Caradiodoc

Sorry for the delay. There are two different styles of ignition switch and I didn't want to waste your time with the wrong one. To add to the misery, my clunky old desktop computer won't run Chrysler's web site correctly so I had to repair my laptop, (for the sixth time this year!), To get to that site.

I'm working on sending you copies of the line drawings but it will be easier if I switch to the other computer. Here is a list of instructions to remove the ignition switch. I wouldn't remove it just yet. All you need to do is get the covers off to gain access to the wires. You can skip step one too.

IGNITION SWITCH
The ignition switch attaches to the lock cylinder housing on the end opposite the lock cylinder Ignition Switch - Viewed From Below Column For ignition switch terminal and circuit identification, Refer to Wiring Diagrams.

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from auxillary jumper terminal on driver's side strut tower.
2. Remove fuse panel cover from left end of instrument panel. Remove screw holding end of instrument panel top cover Instrument Panel Top Cover - Left End
3. Pull center bezel off Center Bezel
4. Remove screws holding instrument panel top cover to center of instrument panel Instrument Panel Top Cover - Center
5. Pull instrument panel top cover up enough to gain access to knee bolster screws Knee Bolster Attaching Points
6. Remove lower knee bolster screws and knee bolster.
7. Remove screws from lower steering column shroud Lower Steering Column Shroud Screw Locations
8. Pull lower shroud to clear ignition cylinder and key release, if equipped Remove Lower Shroud From Ignition Cylinder
9. Hold tilt wheel lever down and slide lower shroud forward to remove it from column Lower Shroud Removal
10. Tilt wheel to full down position and remove upper steering column shroud.
11. Remove screws holding multi-function switch to lock housing Multi-Function Switch Removal/Installation
12. Place key cylinder in RUN position. Depress lock cylinder retaining tab and remove key cylinder Lock Cylinder Removal
13. Disconnect electrical connectors from ignition switch Ignition Switch and Ignition Switch Connectors
14. Remove ignition switch mounting screw Ignition Switch with a #10 Torx  tamper proof bit.
15. Depress retaining tabs Ignition Switch - Viewed From Below Column and pull ignition switch from steering column.
INSTALLATION
1. Ensure the ignition switch is in the RUN position and the actuator shaft in the lock housing is in the RUN position.
2. Carefully install the ignition switch. The switch will snap over the retaining tabs Ignition Switch Installation Install mounting screw Ignition Switch
3. Install electrical connectors to ignition switch.
4. Install upper and lower shrouds.
5. Install key cylinder (cylinder retaining tab will depress only in the RUN position)
6. Connect negative cable to battery.
7. Check for proper operation of ignition switch and key-in warning switch.

I'll be back with another reply shortly.

Caradiodoc

I sent the line drawings to your personal e-mail rather than trying to attach them here. Trying to follow wiring diagrams on computer is really miserable. I don't think you have to remove all the covers listed in the previous directions just to access the wires. You'll need a test light. Do you know how to use one?

Start by probing the black wire with white stripe. The test light should light up when the ignition switch is in the "run" and "accessory" positions. If it only lights up in one of those positions, replace the switch. If it lights up in both positions, check it again when the radio, wipers, and turn signals are dead. If pressing on the terminals causes things to start working, suspect they have been overheated. On rare occasions you might be able to shine them up with sandpaper and squeeze them tighter with a needle nose pliers but replacement of the switch and terminals is the most reliable repair. Usually the internal switch contacts are also burned.

If voltage is on that black / white wire in EITHER switch setting, there's no need to work backwards from there. If it is missing in BOTH settings, check for voltage coming in on the red wire. That one should have voltage all the time, and I suspect it's ok because it feeds other parts of the switch and circuits that are working.

If you do find voltage on the black / white wire while the radio / wipers / turn signals are dead, we'll have to follow that wire to a break. Check for voltage on the 10 amp, (red), fuse number 14 in the left end of the dash, and 10 amp fuse number 15. There are two tiny holes on top of the plastic part that you can touch with the test light if the point of the probe is sharp enough. Also be sure the fuses aren't loose and making intermittent contact.

At this point, the radio and wiper circuits are on those two different fuses. It isn't likely two different circuits will be dead at the same time due to two different causes. The ignition switch is what they have in common. The turn signals and seat belt control module are also fed from fuse number 15. Test all those points when the problem is acting up. They all should have 12 volts, (test light lights up). Any that are missing voltage will tell us where to go next.

You can use an inexpensive digital voltmeter too if you have one, but in this case, the test light is faster and more accurate.

Caradiodoc

I suspect you'll be asking for the ignition switch. It bolts to the lock cylinder.

Since you're in Kentucky, if you're close to Louisville, there's a Pull-A-Part salvage yard you might want to visit. You can experiment on a car there to see what it takes to get to the switch. I've also been to the yards in Memphis, Nashville, and Indianapolis, as well as all of them in Alabama and Georgia. You may have other ones closer to you too. Pay your buck, haul in your own tools, and spend the day. If you damage something, better it be on a car that will be crushed soon than on yours.

Caradiodoc