Power Lift Gate Problems

The CS utilizes an electronic liftgate release system. In the unlikely event that the vehicle losses power or the electric release system fails the following procedure can be used to open the rear liftgate.

Obtain a large flat-bladed screwdriver, enter the vehicle and approach the liftgate.
On the lower portion of the liftgate trim panel you will find a 25mm plastic plug. Remove the plug from the trim panel by gently prying out.

Insert the screwdriver through the access hole and find the slot in the beige release lever. Rotate the release lever up and to the right (when facing rearward), Hold the release lever until the latch has cleared the striker.

Good find. From what I could tel it is a bit of a problem with those vehicles.

I would probably stick with the dealer. Their parts prices are alot more competitive these days and they fit correctly

You bought what for yours, the whole lift gate? "Does not work" What exactly are the symptoms? What works and what does not?

The best way to approach this is to use a scanner to talk back and forth with the various computer modules. The rear module will list various inputs to give a clue to what is causing improper operation.

Please be specific so I do not misunderstand you. You changed the retractable pedals or they do not work?

The first thing to look at is whether the tail lights flash when you try to activate the power gate. If they flash, the module is getting the "open" signal from the TIPM, "Totally Integrated Power Module" next to the battery. Then it becomes an issue of why the lift gate module is not following the command. One possibility is the transmission range switch is mis-adjusted. It can be off just enough to inhibit opening but not interfere with normal starter operation.

A totally different symptom is the gate pops to unlock, but it does not lift open. It immediately closes and re-locks. That is usually a simple matter of readjusting the striker inward to insure it breaks the electrical contact when the gate and latch move rearward when it pops.

Beyond that you need the scanner to see if the gate module is being recognized on the data buss and to view the status of the inputs. It will also tell if there are any diagnostic fault codes stored. Those can direct you to the circuit that needs further diagnosis. For example, there is a switch in the latch assembly to tell the computer the state the latch is in. A wire to it could be broken between the gate's hinges. Without a scanner and the fault codes it can show, you could be chasing wires and testing circuits for days, and the cause still might not be revealed. The mis-adjusted striker is a perfect example. Everything will test fine electrically so you will move on and never see the problem the computer is seeing.

The striker might be the issue if the latch pops, then pulls the gate closed again right away. If it is not popping open, the striker is not the issue. To adjust it, remove the plastic trim strip, then you will see the mounting bolts. Loosen those bolts just enough so you can tap the striker forward about 1/16". If you go too far, it will be hard to latch when you have to do that by hand. In rare cases it can also make it not unlatch due to too much pressure on it.

Technically it's called the "sill plate". It is the trim that covers the striker and runs from side to side between the side panels. On older vans it was held on with four screws. On newer models it is held on with snap clips. To remove those you pry up from underneath to pop the piece off.

When you open the lift gate, you will see a plastic strip that is usually the color of the interior or black. This is the sill plate. It covers the merge between the carpeting and the metal of the body. In this image, it is the piece of plastic with the hole in the middle for the striker.

https://www.2carpros.com/images/external/car-rear-trunk-bumper-Protector-Sill-Plate-Scuff-Trim-Cover-For-Chrysler-200-300-Aspen-Pacifica.jpg_640x640.jpg