Hi Docfixit. Based on the V-8 and apparent external voltage regulator, this would have to be the rear-wheel-drive 5th Ave. model. Using the same name for a front-wheel-drive model adds to the confusion.
johnjenevan: Bypassing fuse links makes me nervous, but what Docfixit is leading up to is to measure the voltage on the large output wire on the back of the alternator. There must be full battery voltage there when the engine is not running. If not, that wire is broken / corroded / unplugged. If the voltage is there and is the same when the engine is running, that alternator is not working. Measure the voltages on the two plug-in wires. The voltage on the output wire and across the battery terminals must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts when the engine is running.
This charging system is by far the world's most simple, reliable, easy-to-troubleshoot system. We will be able to solve the problem for you with a few voltage tests. As for the fuse links, just tug on them. If they act like a wire, they're ok. If they act like a rubber band, they're burned open. The insulation is specially designed to not burn or melt.
caradiodoc
Mar 11, 2010 at 2:26 PM
