2004 Chrysler Concorde Problem starting - Possible fuel pum

2004 CHRYSLER CONCORDE
42,228 MILES • 6 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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THEOLDCOLLEGETRY
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Since owning this car for the past 6 months I've had trouble starting the car. If I turn the key to the on position to allow fuel pressure to build up it starts right away every time, but if I just turn the key and start cranking it cranks about 8 times and then catches and dies. It always starts right away on the second try. I'm thinking that this could be due to a bad check valve on the fuel pump?? I also notice that as soon as the pump stops running there's noise from the fuel tank. I can't say for sure that it's a dripping sound... more like 6 or 7 taps or clicks that slowly fade out within a few seconds. Could this be due to fuel draining back out into the tank through the pump?? Any thoughts on what should do? If it is a pump issue will it cause any damage to just leave it alone?
Mar 15, 2009 at 1:28 PM
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RASMATAZ
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Try checking the ASD relay and test the ignition switch and fuel pressure
Mar 15, 2009 at 11:51 PM
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THEOLDCOLLEGETRY
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Ok, so I just got my haynes manual in the mail today and it says to connect a pressure test gauge using a tee fitting before the fuel rail and to clamp the hose to isolate first the fuel rail, then the pump to watch for static pressure drop. My question is where do I connect the tee into the existing line? I can't see the line under the hood. Is there somewhere under the car I can connect it?
Mar 16, 2009 at 11:56 AM
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RASMATAZ
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Check the fuel rail for a schrader valve/test port


https://images.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_fuel_pressure_system_circuit_11.jpg

Mar 16, 2009 at 12:56 PM
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THEOLDCOLLEGETRY
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Understood. I do have a test port on the fuel rail, however this will not allow me to isolate pressure in the fuel rail from the pump in the tank. Any ideas how I can do that?
Mar 17, 2009 at 3:43 AM
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RASMATAZ
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Hook the fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve/test port turn key on and read the fuel pressure
Mar 17, 2009 at 7:07 AM
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THEOLDCOLLEGETRY
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Ok. If I see a static pressure drop (I'm 95% sure I will), how do I isolate the leak?
Mar 17, 2009 at 10:01 AM
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RASMATAZ
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Could be the injector/s or the fuel pressure
Mar 17, 2009 at 12:15 PM
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THEOLDCOLLEGETRY
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I picked up a pressure gauge and checked the pressure today. With key on and with car running I'm reading about 59psi (Haynes says 53-63), but as soon as the pump shuts off the pressure drops to about 15 psi withing 5 seconds and down to under 5 psi within 20 seconds. I'm also hearing a noise from the tank as the pressure drops. Is there any way this can be leaking injectors, or is it pretty safe to assume it's a leaking pump check valve at this point.
Mar 21, 2009 at 9:00 AM
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RASMATAZ
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Could be the injector/s, pressure regulator/fuel pump check valve you need to investigate thoroughly. You're losing pressure fast
Mar 21, 2009 at 1:49 PM
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THEOLDCOLLEGETRY
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Since the pump/regulator is in the tank I assume the easiest thing to check at this point are the injectors. Any idea where I can tap into the fuel line with the pressure tester without either dropping the tank or pulling off the intake plenum?
Mar 21, 2009 at 2:42 PM
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RASMATAZ
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I picked up a pressure gauge and checked the pressure today. With key on and with car running I'm reading about 59psi (Haynes says 53-63),

Any idea where I can tap into the fuel line with the pressure tester without either dropping the tank or pulling off the intake plenum

How did you get the reading above? If you don't know where to tap in.

Pleas await for another expert to assist here.
Mar 21, 2009 at 6:16 PM
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THEOLDCOLLEGETRY
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I think I figured out a way to do further testing that makes more sense than my last question. I connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail to do the first pressure test. That confirmed that I have a leak somewhere in the system. Now in order to isolate the leak I assume I need to run the pump with the gauge connected and quickly pinch off the line somewhere before the injectors once the pump stops. If the system holds pressure, then I assume the injectors are not leaking and replace the pump. If it doesn't hold pressure than I start with removing the fuel rail to see which injectors are leaking. Does that make sense? I'm just trying to figure out where I can pinch off the line.
Mar 22, 2009 at 12:55 AM
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