1994 S-10 Blazer Motor Mount

Tiny
M1GARAND
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER
4.3L Vortec, 143,000 miles, 4X4, 4 door.

The rubber block portion of the left motor mount has disentegrated and fallen out. The fan is now whacking the shroud (this happened a couple of miles from home, luckily). I have new motor mounts ready to install, the question is, can they be replaced without having to completely pull the engine? It seems like it would be a challenge, but not impossible, by lifting the engine slightly on the left side, dropping the front driveshaft, and possibly the Y pipe. The motor mount on that side is directly over the front differential.
Saturday, March 10th, 2007 AT 6:59 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
CHEVY22
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,375 POSTS
If you have the right tools you wont have to do all of that, you can pull both motor mount center bolts, use a piece of wood as to not damage the pan and lift the engine enough so you can get in there enough to work, sometimes I will pull the wheel and try to work some of it from there, just watch your hands
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Saturday, March 10th, 2007 AT 8:02 AM
Tiny
M1GARAND
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I am assuming by using wood where the pan is concerned, I am lifting the engine from below with a floor jack. Then doing the repair from the wheel well just like changing spark plugs? God, I hope it's that simple. Thanks
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Saturday, March 10th, 2007 AT 11:02 AM
Tiny
CHEVY22
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Yes jack under the oil pan, and it realy sint that bad, it will fight you a bit and you may find it easier from below and under the hood, but just watch as things acome apart and you jack the engine you will see what I mean
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Saturday, March 10th, 2007 AT 11:22 AM
Tiny
M1GARAND
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The motor mount was successfully replaced. It was a difficult
but not impossible task. There was no access through the wheel
well because the mount is behind the frame rail, under the
exhaust manifold and steering rod, as well as some brake lines,
etc. I did end up removing the front driveshaft, which gave me
enough room to get my arm up to the back of the mount, over
the front differential to remove the nut on the mounting bolt.
After removing the mounting bolt on the passenger side, I lifted
the engine from the pan to remove the defective mount. The
engine did not seem to want to tip over, but I put blocks of
wood on both sides to make sure. If it tipped while I had my
hands in there, I'd be trapped for hours before being found.
The broken motor mount came out easily since it was in two pieces
because the rubber was gone. Getting a new whole mount in would be
a different matter. I had to modify the mount slightly with a
cutting wheel to allow installation between the frame mount and
the block, and to allow the lower block mounting bolt to be
installed. Although I have a replacement mount for the passenger
side, I did not bother to replace it, since it seemed to be OK,
and I'd have to drop the starter to get at that one. Enough was
enough on this job. Hopefully this will help someone in the
future. Thanks a bunch!
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2007 AT 9:19 AM
Tiny
CHEVY22
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No problem im glad you got it, I didnt want to discourage you by telling you it was bad but once you do them you can figure out the tricks to make it easier

Jim
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2007 AT 10:50 AM

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