I have no brake lights I need to fix it

The brake light switch is on the top of the brake pedal. Use a test light to see if you have power on both sides once the pedal is depressed (orange wire)

Here are guides to help you get the job done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-lights-not-working

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

There is a tail lamp relay as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Here is a wiring diagram to help (below) Please let us know what you find.

Yes it will, you can check for power in to the switch (which is hot all the time) and when you hit the brakes, there should be power coming out from the other wire. If I had to guess.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken

It's not a ground wire problem. Those wires already go to ground so if one is bare and touching the body, that's what it's already going to. If it's broken, there is no short so the fuse wouldn't blow.

A simple trick to finding a short is to replace the blown fuse with a pair of spade terminals, then use small jumper wires to connect them to a 12 volt light bulb. A brake light bulb works well. When the circuit is live and the short is present, the bulb will be full brightness and hot so be sure it's not laying on the carpet or against a plastic door panel. Now you can unplug electrical connectors and move things around to see what makes the short go away. When it does, the bulb will get dim or go out.

You can place a stick between the seat and the brake pedal to keep the brake light switch turned on for the tests. Also, try activating the turn signals each way. If turning on the left signals, for example, makes the test bulb light up bright, but it's just dim for the right signal, you'll know to look on the left side for the short. The place to start looking for a grounded wire is at a trailer wiring harness.

I don't have all trucks memorized so you'll have to tell me, ... Does yours use separate bulbs in back, one for the signal and another one for the brake light? Most manufacturers have gone to that. It greatly simplifies the turn signal switch but it makes it miserable for connecting the two independent circuits to one circuit on a trailer.

My guess is you have two separate bulbs because you said the turn signals work. If that is correct, the signal switch is not part of the system so we can forget that. Switches won't cause a blowing fuse anyway because there isn't anything in them going to ground, therefore, no matter what would become shorted, it would just make the wrong lights turn on or at the wrong time.

Do my light bulb trick so you don't have to keep wasting fuses. Once the brake pedal is held down and the test bulb is bright, move harnesses around, particularly in back, and remove the rear lamp assemblies to see if disturbing any of those things makes the bulb go dim. When it does, you'll also see the brake lights turn on dimly.

If you have a four-pin trailer connector from U-Haul with three red LEDs on it, those often shorted leading to blowing fuses.

Not sure what you heard clicking, but the brake light switch would have been the best suspect. Start by measuring the voltage on the orange wire on the brake light switch. If you have that, verify you have twelve volts on the white wire when you press the brake pedal.

The best suspect is the turn signal switch. The working center high-mount brake light proves the brake light switch and its circuit are working. That brake light doesn't go through the signal switch, but the two rear brake lights do.

Before you replace the turn signal switch assembly, be sure the hazard switch is fully turned off and is not stuck midway between on and off.

To verify this, check for 12 volts on the white wire, (blue arrow), at the signal switch connector when the brake pedal is pressed. Next, check on the yellow or dark green wires and you'll find it's not there.

Good evening,

Does the brake pedal feel normal? Here is what the brake light switch should look like. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Hi,

The entire switch shouldn't move. Are you sure it hasn't come disconnected? Here are directions for removal and replacement. Take a look through these directions and confirm it is still properly attached. The two attached pictures correlate with the directions.

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1995 Chevy Truck C 1500 Truck 2WD V8-350 5.7L VIN K TBI
Stop Lamp Switch
Vehicle Sensors and Switches Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns Brake Light Switch Service and Repair Procedures Stop Lamp Switch
STOP LAMP SWITCH
STOPLAMP SWITCH

Remove or Disconnect

pic 1

1. Negative battery cable.
2. Retainer from brake pedal pin.
3. Switch by unsnapping from pushrod.
4. Electrical connector from switch.

Install or Connect

pic 2

1. Electrical connector into switch.
2. Switch by snapping it onto pushrod.
3. Retainer onto brake pedal pin.
4. Negative battery cable.

______________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Yep we like it too

How did you check the wiring? Did you ohm it out to make sure you don't have any shorts? I suspect that is the issue because there isn't anything else in this system other than wiring, the switch and bulbs. If just pressing the pedal makes the switch fail, then I suspect there is a wiring issue.

Let's check for shorts to power, ground and go from there.