How do you set timing on a 2.2

We will get a code scanner tonight and post the codes tomarrow morning. Thanks

(plz note all cyl #'s referenced are by firing order)

engine codes on 2.2l are PO300. We have checked all plug wires and they are new and installed correctly. We have pulled the plugs and double checked the gap and all are good. #4 seems fuel wetted so we are going to replace it. But on this note when a timing light is used to test electrical flow through the #4 wire it shows its firing. We also noted that when the motor stops running a short quick flame exhausts through the throttle body. It isn't possible to have the timing 180 degrees out on this is there. If it had a distributor I would try it but needless to say it doesn't.

Update:

we took the wet plug from #4 cyl and relocated to #2 cyl and it burns fine. The plug from #2 was placed in #4 and it is wet so we think it may either the wire or the ingition module. We are planning to swap #3 wire with #4 wire to see if the issue relocates to #3 cylinder. If it does then we have an issue with the wire. If the issue stays in #4 after the swap then we have an issue with the module. But it is funny that the wire shows current passing through it. Any thoughts at this point?

Update:

We found that after swapping a few things around like plugs and wires the issue still remains on the (firing order) #4 cylinder which puts us at the ignition module. We are checking for good connector connection to module and a spark gap ground-jump test. Test for inductance doesn't measure current strength.

We pulled the plug on # 4 cyl (plz remember we are referencing firing order when talking cyl#) and the new plug was wet. We dried it and grounded it against the chassis and confirmed a nice hot fat spark. So weak spark was ruled out. We started the motor with the plug removed and it actually ran smoother but we noticed a heavy "puff" of mist every time the air forced out through the spark plug hole. This confirmed that we had an injector that was stuck in the open position all the time. It was dumping tons of fuel into the cyl 100% of the time fouling out that cylinder. We installed a new injector and it seems to have solved our problems. Thanks for all of your help.

Actually I spoke too soon. Based on feedback from a chevy "tech" we were "advised" it was a sticky injector but upon replacing it we found to still have the same issues after it ran for about 10 minutes. We contacted Chevy and we were instructed to take a light emitting diode test light and jump it across the power leads to the injector. Upon which we found that there was only power momentarily applied when the ignition key was being rotated. Once in the "run" position there was no power being applied or pulsed to the injector. We contacted Chevy and were directed to a factory rep whom told us that when this issue occurs, 99% of the time there is a fault in the ECU injector module. Even more intresting is the rarity that these units actually malfunction. Unfortunately it looks as if we need to replace the ECU. We plan to have it replaced this weekend and will update you as to whether this fixes the issue or not.

Well we are buying one thats used from a used parts retailer that gives us a 2 year warrenty on any part sold by them for an additional fee. The standard warrenty is 90 days on anything sold. Even electrical parts such as this. And its coming out of a same year same model truck and has the same part number and vin code designation markings. So we should be fairly safe. The guy at our local dealership said if there was any issues with compatability or reprogramming was needed he would do it for 50$. We are getting the module for 25$. Considering a new one, out of the box, is 550$ this is our cheapest easiest way out on a tight budget.