Engine Overheating

Most common problems with vehicles overheating is one, the thermostat. Two, a clogged system. Try draining the coolant out of the vehicle saving it in a container, then back flush the radiator and engine with water using a hose. Make sure the engine is cool when you do it. If that does not work then do a compression check on the engine to check if there is other problems.

This guide can help as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers

Also with the temperature going up then suddenly going down I would check the head gasket because this is what the car does when it is bad.

Here is a guide to confirm the issue:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers

Bad news, it tested positive for the blown head gasket. The shop is going to charge me $1,200.00 to do the job. Thanks for your help though at least I found out.

Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers

First and foremost, I wish to give a quick shout-out to the community with my previous issues. Keep up the great work.

New issue on hand. Was driving home and have made it to the last mile. All of the sudden, it got incredibly hard to steer. At the onset of the problem, I did a mental check of previous troubleshooting steps. I have already have replaced the power steering pump and inspected the pressure line (I can come back to replace it later on if need be). As I was wrestling the car back in the driveway, the engine started to overheat.

I began to research the problem. From what I gather, the issue of the hard steering was deducted to a bad rack. I have the part on order already.However, I need to investigate the overheating aspect as well. Could it be due to the rack's malfunction, or could it be another issue entirely?

Hard steering:
Replaced power steering pump.
Inspected power steering pressure line on both ends.

Engine overheating
Replaced radiator reservoir and hose as it was cracked. And that did resolve the issue. However, with it overheating due to the steering issue, I have to cover my apples.

I look forward to hearing your wise words.


Thanks!

First clear up my confusion. It sounds like you replaced the power steering pump previously for some other problem. Is that right?

The rack and pinion steering gear can cause loss of power assist when the Teflon rings on the spool valve leak, but that never comes on suddenly as you described. In fact, GM had a real big problem with what we call "morning sickness", in the late 1980's and early 1990's. The symptom always is the same. No power assist first thing in the morning for the first ten to twenty seconds, but only when turning in one direction. Over the next few weeks or months, it will take longer and longer for the assist to come back, and eventually turning the other way will be affected too.

Given the overheating at the same time, I would suspect a belt problem, specifically a rusted spring-loaded tension-er that is not keeping the belt tight.

Another thing to look at is the vibration damper. On many engines, the outer ring is the drive pulley for the serpentine belt. If the gel that is bonding that ring to the hub lets go, it can spin and not drive the belt.

I will gladly clear up any confusion for you. In the regard to the hard steering, it began with upon start-up as it would be difficult to turn when getting out of the drive way. I first checked the power steering levels as they were low. I replaced the power steering fluid accordingly .For a time, it worked. However, I soon find myself having to put it in more often. Also, there was a leak now that you mentioned. After researching the issue, and going through my Haynes repair manual. I was advised to inspect the power steering pressure hose and replace the power steering pump. And for a while, it worked as it no longer leaked as well. When the full-blown issue happened I was starting up the car as I was leaving post office which is less than a mile home. As I was backing out, that is when the difficulty in steering came back. Did some research, reached out to a few mechanic friends they stated that it could possibly be a bad rack. It is my hope that this clears up any confusion for you.

Yes, thank you. Anything is possible, but this does not sound like a bad rack. If it is, you would have had hard steering in just one direction. I am still leaning toward a belt issue. After that, a recently-replaced part, (the pump), has a better chance of failing. I have run into pulleys with center holes wobbled out and the pulley was not turning the pump's shaft, and I have had two with a shaft that snapped. The pulley appeared to spinning normally, but with the engine stopped, it and half of the shaft could be pulled out by hand. Both of those were permanent failures, meaning the power assist never came back.

Thank you for your advice. Okay, I will take your angle at this. Besides, trial and error, right? As I am taking the DIY approach, please direct as in the regards to what to look for, the parts, and links to any correspondence with instructions as to how to go about performing this task. Having replaced the belt before, this will be familiar territory. By no means am I an engineer as I am a computer geek, but I have to give credit to the GM engineers. I like the modularity of their design of the 3.4L engines as to how easy it is to get to some of these parts compared to other engine layouts. I am really enjoying being in control of my vehicle's maintenance. I humbly await your instruction.

Here is a photo of what your vibration damper looks like. The green arrow is pointing to the outer ring, which is the pulley. The blue arrow is pointing to the bonding material that holds the ring to the hub. Sometimes you will see that bonding material looks like it melted and/or sprayed around the area. Sometimes they look perfectly fine, even when the ring is broken loose.

To check for that elusive cause, put a chalk mark or piece of tape on the center hub by the red arrow, and another one on the outer ring, by the green arrow. Now run the engine for a least a minute or two. When you stop the engine and inspect those two marks, they should still be lined up like they were when you planted them. If they have move in relation to each other, that bonding material has let go and the assembly must be replaced.

3.4 Liter engine was recently overheating. I took it to a Chevrolet service center. They replaced the thermostat (as well as flushed the coolant and new spark plugs). It now is very erratic. It may or may not overheat (up to red on the gauge) , but the problem continued.

Just tonight I took it for a drive. When I was working the engine (driving up a hill or going seventy) it seemed to blow really hot air, then when I was driving slow or idling it seemed to blow cooler air, but then I got home and idled it and it was blowing hot with the temperature steady.

Have the air blend door/actuator checked out.

Sounds like it is air-locked. The blend actuator will not change dependent on rpm change. If there is air in your coolant system it will do exactly as you are saying. Check your coolant level, and top up as needed. When your dealer changed the thermostat they drained some coolant and refilled, prob did not get all the air out.

Overheating and I changed radiator and bled the system.

Rent a pressure tester at auto parts, make sure coolant is full then pressure check for blown head gaskets.

I take it the car was overheating so you changed the radiator and bled the system and it is still running hot?
Other items that can cause overheating are a bad thermostat, bad water pump, bad head gasket, cracked head, or block.
Here are a few things to check over:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

So my car over heated the other day we have changed the water pump the thermostat, the heating and cooling sensor on top of the engine, radiator cap. The radiator is full, overflow is full, fans are working and we have burped the system once. Do you think it could still have air in it or could it be something else? It is still over heating.

When engine is hot, disconnect fans by pulling fuse or relay so they will not start, then feel radiator if you feel cold spots it is bad, if you are using coolant then have the system pressure tested for head gasket/intake. If you see oil in overflow tank then have it checked for head gasket.

The radiator has good flow through it. All the hoses feel good it is not smoking when it started, so we do not think it is a head gasket.

guess you know what's best

im not a no it all but you sound like a smartass! i asked could their still be air in the lines? or someone else suggested maybe the cadillic converter?

Engine Cooling problem
2003 Chevy Impala 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic
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Help please have already spent over 1000.00 on repairs .The car started turning off a week a ago to it to pep boys they replaced the spark plugs ,spark plug wires,did a cooloant kit,diagnostics, replaced battery . it worked for about a week the yesterday it brokr down again it shut off it was over heating took it back to pep boys they could not figure out what was wrong finally the master tech suspected that the MAP was clogged and need replacement so i had them replace that it turned on for a while and then it shut down still over heating so they say they have no clue what is wrong but suggest that it may be the catalist converter,electrical,fan housing,wiring they are still working on it and cant find a solution to the problems oh yeah after they installed they MAP sensor the car start emiting balack smoke....
So i could really use some advice if u need to contact me call me at 2109950618

The black smoke is likely due to a rich fuel/air mixture (too much gas is burned).

You could have a leaky fuel injector, a defective fuel pressure regulator, a clogged air filter, a problem with the MAP sensor, a defective coolant sensor, a defective o2 sensor, TPS sensor, problem in the EGR system.
You could also have more serious internal engine problems (like burnt exhaust valves).

First thing I would do: hook up an autoscanner to your PCM and check for DTCs/pending DTCs. Make sure the readings from all the sensors are within range.

Honestly, I'd be very careful with a car shop that starts replacing one part after another without doing any real diagnostic.
I suggest you take it to a different car shop (one recommended by a friend or something).

Given your description of the problem, a glogged catalytic converter could be the culprit indeed; however it could be many other things as well. (check intake vacuum at idle; if low and keep dropping check your exhaust system).
If it turns out to be the converter, I recommend you replace (or at least inspect carefully) your O2 sensors. They are very important for proper operation of the catalytic converter.

If the converter is alright and the sensors test fine, I would probably take a look at the charging system (if you have a problem in your charging system, it would eventually result in your car turning off).
When your car turned off, were you able to start it right back up, or did you have to jump start it?

Also, do a fuel pressure test; it should tell you if there's any problem with your fuel system.

Check for vacuum leaks. It could cause your car to run roughly or stall. This should be more noticeable at idle, thus my following questions:

does your car turn off at idle or when you're driving?

Finally, if you still haven't found the problem, do a compression test; it will tell you if you have internal engine problems.

neither f those would effect overheating and head gasket doesn't have to smoke to be bad they leak internally. do what I said in first reply, radiator can have good flow and still be bad if you feel cold spots then it's no good shold be same temp all over.

Lets see, water pump started leaking replaced. No more water leaking but car continue to 'lose water'. No water in oil, no water from tail pipe, no water on ground.

Overheated. Checked engine compression - good in all cylinders. Replaced upper and lower intake manifolds including plastic pieces inside intake. Reassembled. Car continues to overheat periodic water down, no obvious leaks.

Overheated cooled more Dex Cool and car won't start.... ideas?

No start ?after it overheated
check for compression
check for spark check for fuel pressure
do a code check

engine coolant overheat warning..poured coolant into radiator and then the overflow tank. leaks from the driver's side under a big black component. steam/smoke has come from the black box. can see moisture along a long silver plate to the black box. Had my transmission repaired/replaced Nov 2010 and this is when the engine started overheating. can see where the leak comes from everything on top is dry it is somewhere underneath but doesnt' leak constant...can drive car

You will have to pressure test the cooling system and track the leak back to it's origin.

Drove this car 400 miles with the engine overheating. Now the mwchanic thinks it has a warped gasket with low compression on #5 cylinder.We were quoted a $1300 repair for head removal and gasket r&r.my 22 year old son has the car in tulsa, im in st louis.Should we repair this or scrap it? Ive had it 3 years and paid 3800dollars for it, put 30,000 miles on it.Not sure what to do. Hope you can help thanks

$1,300 is absolutely ridiculous! Run from this mechanic and don't look back! (An honest quote would've been around $700)

A used motor with about 30,000 miles for this vehicle should run you around $700-900. The labor for an install will set you back about $500. As long as you go to a reputable (and honest) shop, they'll give you a 12 month/12 thousand mile warranty. That's a much better option than replacing a head gasket on a motor that has 160K miles on it.

No matter how far you can get the price down for a head gasket swap, DON'T BOTHER. That motor is ready to poop out anyway, especially after driving it 400 miles while it's overheating. (DON'T DO THAT ON THE NEXT MOTOR!!!)

And to find a motor, check on-line. Just google motors in your area. You'll find one, and when you do, ask them to recommend a mechanic to do the install.

My car started to over heat and adding coolant wasn't helping. I replaced the thermostat and then the waterpump and still nothing.... What should I do next? I ws told that sometimes Auto Zone sells parts that can be bad from the start should I try to see if maybe I should get another one? What should I do next?

You replaced the two parts least likely to cause overheating. If you're having to add coolant have the engine tested for a leaking head gasket. Your mechanic will use a glass cylinder with two chambers partially filled with a special dark blue liquid. He will draw air through it from the radiator while the engine is running. If the cylinder head gasket is leaking, the liquid will turn bright yellow.

Do you need to keep adding coolant?
Are the cooling fans working correctly?

Yes the fans are working correctly

I have a 2003 chevy impala that gets hot after i drive it for 10 minutes. It does not get hot when the engine is being run hard.
we have replaced the thermostat, flushed the cooling system, changed the water pump, replaced the intake gaskets. We tested the coolant for any exhaust getting into the radiator with a snap on test kit.
Do you have any help for us? Thank you.

Try bleeding it see below

Always bleed air from cooling system after replacing coolant. Set heater for maximum heat. Remove radiator cap. Loosen drain plug and remove drain bolt (if equipped) from engine block. Drain coolant reservoir. Fill coolant reservoir to MAX mark with 50/50 water-coolant mixture. Loosen bleed bolt and fill radiator up to base of filler neck. Close bleed bolt when coolant flows out without bubbles. Tighten bleed bolt. With radiator cap removed, start and operate engine to normal operating temperature. Add coolant if necessary and check for leaks.

something against the firewall on the passenger side is dripping water, and it drains the overfill bottle.

if you coolant level does not go down then it is probably the condensation from the air conditioner working which will drip on pass side through drain hose. otherwise have cooling system pressure checked.

Heater problem
2003 Chevy Impala Front Wheel Drive Automatic

my temp goes up and down like a yo yo. almost red lines then goes down.just started doing this a few weeks ago.also no hot air comes out. does not seem like its the radiator.thermostat maybe?

I vote thermostat