Stabilitrak and service engine light

Hello,

This sounds like one of the front bearing hubs is out causing the ABS wheel speed sensor not to work correctly. To find out which one lets run the codes by following this video.

https://youtu.be/rTtAnsOlZU4

Instructions on how to replace the hubs is in the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on

It sounds like you have a sensor problem. Have the computer scanned to identify a trouble code. That will point you in the right direction.

The common problem on GMs with removable sensors is rust builds up under them and pushes them up. That increases the air gap and decreases the signal strength. These sensors develop rather wimpy signals to begin with, so a decrease is exaggerated when the vehicle slows down. Movement between parts is one of the three ingredients in generating a voltage, and as speed of that movement slows down, the signal being generated gets weaker, until it reaches the point where the computer can't read it and it thinks that wheel has locked up.

The clues here are generally the faults will be detected at slower speeds. The anti-lock system will only activate when the brake pedal is pressed, and you usually don't do that for very long at higher speeds. The traction control part of the system activates during acceleration. A signal dropout during braking or accelerating will activate the appropriate system, but when you're cruising at a steady speed, a dropout is detected as a defect, and that's when the diagnostic fault code is set and the warning lights turn on.

You didn't indicate that you actually had the fault codes read and recorded, so you're just going by what other misinformed people thought fixed the problem. It's important to understand that when the warning lights turn on, there is a diagnostic fault code to tell you which circuit or system needs further diagnosis. Even with wheel speed sensors, there are multiple fault codes that can be set and they mean very different things and have different repair procedures. A code can relate to a break in the electrical circuit to a sensor. A common cause of that is corrosion buildup between the mating terminals in a connector. Replacing the sensor can make the problem appear to be fixed due to scratching action of sliding the connector together. That scratching creates clean and shiny spots for the terminals, but the corrosion always comes back weeks or months later.

A speed error code related to a speed sensor is often due to a cracked tone wheel, but a tire of the wrong circumference will do that too. A sensor's signal can be missing, as I first mentioned, but electrically the circuit is still intact. That will set yet a different fault code.

So this all happened after the hub assemsbly was changed?If so all the work that was done needs to be rechecked.

You either have a failed throttle body or pedal sensor for the fly by wire system/

turn off the car and re start. It may bring everything back on line for now but will fail again.

Roy

I don't feel there is anything wrong with the transmission. It sounds like an ABS sensor may have been affected by the water. You see, if the computer feels the vehicle is sliding or spinning a wheel, it will cut the power from the engine to help the driver regain control. Have the computer scanned to see if there is a problem with one of the sensors for the ABS.

You can try to replac the egr valve but no guarantee if it fixing it. The wiring cold have ashor tor bad connection at pcm or eger. And is best left to pros to diagnose it. The other see if your trans fluid is dirty if you have a dipstick otherwise you need a trasn pro to look at it. For the stabilizer you need apro scanner to test what is wrong if anything with it.

No, all systems are not working. The ABS system has recognized a problem and shut the system down. You need to have someone with a professional scan tool read the stored codes and go from there. DO NOT disconnect the battery. You're just erasing all the important diagnostic data. Make sure you have checked your brake fluid level first.

That isn't much to go on. If the noise only occurs when you're applying the brakes, the noise is probably normal when the system is activating. The issue then is false activation when it isn't needed. The most common cause on GM vehicles is a loss of signal from one of the wheel speed sensors. That can be caused by rust buildup under a sensor that pushes it away from the toothed tone ring. Rust buildup on the tip of the magnet in the sensor can do that too.

The fastest way to find this is to connect a scanner to view live data during a test drive. Wheel speed signal strength is related to speed. As the vehicle slows down, the signals get weaker. If something causes the signal to be abnormally weak to start with, it will get even weaker at slow speeds to the point the computer can't read it. When that happens it will assume that wheel has locked up and will activate the hydraulic controller to try to get the wheel spinning again.