I haven't been able to get it to start?

Wow, your approach to this has probably created numerous new issues now. Throwing parts at a problem will never work out.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

You need to perform tests #1 and #2.

You need to finish testing as I asked.

If you have a security light on or flashing, let me know.

No problem, I'll be around when you get the info. We need some facts here about what works and what doesn't. I'm a little concerned about that security light though.
Let me know what the history is here. Did any modules, wiring or ignition switch get changed? How did all this start?

OK look, what you changed or checked means nothing right now. The way we resolve these things is we systematically isolate what function is missing before we go any further. I gave a you a list of specific things that I needed to know. Until you can give me definitive answers on ALL those tests and follow up with subsequent testing, I'm not going to be able to help you. I realize you have your own ideas and agenda but I'm not going to waste a lot of time that way.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

You can get a noid light for less than $10 at most auto parts stores.

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I'm not offended. I just don't want to continue wasting time with no results. We have a system to diagnose these things and I need answers to the questions I ask. If you don't have what you need, then you have to get it. I don't have a crystal ball and the tests have to be done by you or a repair shop your paying to do it. The "throw parts at it" method is not my method.

The coils on this one are powered through the ignition module which is under the coils on the pink wire coming into it.

Get all the results together and then tell me. Check everything twice to be sure.