1995 Chevy Camaro engine idle

1995 CHEVROLET CAMARO
88,050 MILES • V8 • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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DKENT
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  • 4 POSTS
I wanted to ask you about an issue that I have with my 95 Chevy Camaro Z28. It has the 5.7 V8 and has only 88050 orginal miles. Sometimes when it is running the engine idle will be around 1000 to 1500 RPM at a stop light. When it is first started, the idle will stay around 500 RPM. My first thought would be that the IAC might be intermitent, but I never need to give it any gas, since its running too high and my feet are holding on the brakes so it wont move. Thank you for taking the time to read my issue and if you need more information, please let me know. Thank you for any assistance that you can provide.
Dec 24, 2009 at 11:43 PM
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ERNEST CLARK
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First of all, is your "Check engine" light illuminated? If so, have it hooked to a scanner. If your crankshaft or camshaft sensors are faulty, then they should set a code (But not always)

If not, then the first thing I'd look for is a vacuum leak. Look at the hoses near the PCV valve, the brake booster, EGR valve, and the MAP sensor if your engine uses one.

If there's no leak, and no trouble codes, check the throttle cable/plate for sticking.

Then the last place to check is the IAC valve and the electronic/vacuum lines that are hooked to it.
Dec 31, 2009 at 1:56 PM
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DKENT
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Mr. Clark,

Thank you for responding to my question. I do not have the check engine light on. I will check all of the vacuum lines and see if they are either cracked or any damage on them. Should I replace the MAP sensor as a good measure and then check the idle? If all of that doesnt work, then I will replace the IAC sensor/motor and hopefully that will fix the high engine idle. Thank you for your response and have a happy new year!

Sincerely,
Doug Kent
Jan 1, 2010 at 4:25 PM
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ERNEST CLARK
  • AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
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It's never a good idea to replace parts and hope to hit the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

It's expensive, and hardly ever works. Instead, if you are trying to go the cheapest route, remove the suspected part, take it to AutoZone or any major parts store, and ask them to test if for you. (Or instructions on how to test it) It's usually free, and it'll save you money and many headaches.

And keep in mind, once you find a faulty part, it may not be the ONLY faulty part.
Jan 1, 2010 at 4:42 PM