Perhaps if I clear up a couple of misconceptions, you can get on the right track to solving this. First, the severity of a diagnostic fault code can be determined by how the check engine light acts. For the lowest level, the light never turns on. The only way to even know the code is there is to read them.
The next level refers to anything that could adversely affect emissions. Those must turn on the light. For the least serious problems, the light will go off during that key cycle, meaning while you are driving. When the light goes off while driving, it is an intermittent problem and it is not acting up at that time.
For the next serious codes, the light will turn on when an intermittent problem occurs, and it will "latch" on for the remainder of that key cycle, even if the problem stops acting up. The light will only get turned off after you stop and restart the engine. For the really serious codes, the light will be on all the time, even if it was an intermittent problem and it is not acting up now. Those are the ones you do not want to lose by disconnecting the battery because you will lose that valuable information.
The most serious codes will result in a flashing Check Engine light. That means too much unburned fuel is going into the exhaust system where it will burn in the catalytic converter and overheat it.
P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
The next tidbit of great importance is the word "circuit" in the fault code. Diagnostic fault codes never say to replace a part or that one is bad. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, or the unacceptable operating condition. When a part is referenced in a fault code, that part is actually the cause of the code about half of the time. First you have ti look for cut and grounded wires, corroded or stretched connector terminals, and mechanical problems related to the circuit.
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Monday, June 20th, 2016 AT 11:41 PM
