Charging voltage

The alternator isn't charging the battery. When you start the engine, the electrical draw from all the different modules, lights, fuel pump, and so on all require power to work. Since the alternator isn't producing voltage, the battery is working alone. Thus, you have a lower voltage.

First, confirm fuses are good. If you look at the last three pics below, they show fuses related to the alternator. Check them. Make sure there is power to and from them as well. Here is a link you may find helpful. Note, there is a 175-amp fuse tied with the alternator as well. See pic 4 below. I didn't highlight it because I feel it likely isn't the cause but check it if you find a power issue to fuse 26 in the under-hood fuse box.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Since you already checked the voltage, it sounds like the alternator needs replaced, especially if the fuses check good. You can remove it and have it bench tested at most parts stores. They will be able to confirm if it is working. Also, most will do it free of charge.

Here is a link that explains in general how one is replaced. You can use this to help guide you through the replacement process.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

If you look at the two pics below, they are from the manual specific to your vehicle. When you work on the alternator, please make sure the battery is disconnected first. (Pics 1 and 2) Pic 3 is the wiring schematic for the charging system. I added it for reference.

Let me know what you find or if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Whoa Joe. That was quit!

I will check everything again, in a few but in the meantime, my curiosity
is why the voltage on the alternator and battery goes up to 12 volts when
I disconnect C1104, the connector on the alternator.

When I check voltage at the main cable on the
alternator that goes to Fuse B in your pics
1: With connector ON = 10-11 Volts
2: With connector OFF = 12.3 Volts.

1000 of thanks again!!
You people responded very fast, I will promote
this web place on the net.

Hi,

That connects to the GEM (generic electronic module). You are drawing more power when it's connected because you have connected more electronics.

In this case, since it doesn't go above 12.3v, there is a good chance the alternator is bad. I would remove it and bench test it to confirm. Most parts stores will do it free of charge.

Let me know if you have other questions or if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe

Joe, the alternator will be here by Wednesday (Ordered Online)
However, I found conflicting info on the service manual.
Can you let me know "The Right Torque" for the 3 indicated bolts?
Idler wheel will be replaced, but the wheel of the Tensioner needs to re-tied-up.
Thanks....

Hi,

Did you have the alternator bench tested to confirm? As far as the torque specs, the only one indicated in the manual for the tensioner is 18 ft/lb. The idler pulley is 35 ft/lb.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

No matter what, that alternator is making noise when you turn it by hand.
Now, this pic shows what my manual indicates, however the one marked with
the arrow, lost pressure by mistake, need to tie back, 18 -20?

Hi,

Yep, that's the tensioner. 10 to 20 ft/lbs should be fine.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe

Thank Joe, the alternator is in and also a new Idler Pulley.
Voltage at the battery is now 14 Volts.
However, there is something now that it didn't do before, when I reached 40 MPH
the motor starts with hiccups , the car will not shut off, but also on a little hill will do
that again, I thought was the transmission, but I see that the transmission is switching okay
and even parking when it is cold may do that. Do you think bad gasoline from Walmart have something to do with it?

Hi,

It's possible that the fuel is bad. By chance, has the engine light turned on? Let me know. Also, just do a quick inspection to make sure no vacuum hoses were left off or damaged as well as electrical connectors. Since it happened after the work, it's likely something really simple.

Here is a link that explains how to locate a leak:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Take care,

Joe

Okay, I can't just read without saying Thanks Again
Let's hope it gets a little warm outside, because we had some very cold days.

What I got from my Scanner: P0306 Cylinder number 6 misfiring.

That is specific to that cylinder only. Make sure the spark plug wire at the coil wasn't damaged, shorting, or loose. Follow it from the coil to the plug.

Let me know what you find. I attached pics below showing the coil and engine cylinder locations for cylinder 6.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

I am sorry for bothering you so much.
The fact is I appreciated so much what you folks doing, that I created a
promotional video-clip located here: https://www.facebook.com/100004608636727/videos/418478300063163/

Also available on Facebook's Messenger for 2CarPros.

Hope you like it.

You are no bother at all. That is excellent and thank you!!! I will send the link to the one guy in the pic, Ken. I know he will truly appreciate it.

Thanks again,

Joe

Thank you.....

wow! Thank you so much for the video. We are glad you like our service. my mom created it back in 1999.

Thanks Ken, I did it for you and feel free to do whatever you want with it, it is
on my wall too on Facebook (Gondar Person ).
Just stopped by to tell Joe that the car will have to wait, look at the weather map.
I am on Roanoke, Virginia, and old coming apart... LOL Take care.
Let's wait until this weather warms up a little bit.

The conditions today the 17, as you can see, we had about 4 to 6 inches.
Still, I went and cleaned the car a little bit and fire-up.
Like always, it fires up in one second with no hesitations or anything.

Hi,

I plowed snow most of the day. Now, the wind is blowing it back on everything. Ugh! LOL

Were you able to check the spark plug wire for the cylinder misfire?

Let me know.

Joe

The wind is also bad here, so no, I always start the car every 2 days when not using it.
Wait until this snow goes down, I play in a bowling league, was also cancelled
for tomorrow Tuesday (Chickens LOL). If you noticed I did not even clean the car
completely, wind started to pick up, I let you know when I do it, maybe in the next 2 days
if weather permitted. In mean time sing... Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head....

No problem. Let me know when you get the chance. Also, keep warm. We are going below 0 at the end of the week.

Take care,

Joe

Joe, we were surrounded by rocks of solid ice, still I fired the car up every day, now I tried to break the ice by going over and around the block, this is the question my friend...
The car starts shaking because the miss firing like it going to shut off (But never does),
but then he just starts running like nothing happened, smooth, until it starts shaking
again, why the change, if this was electronics, I would say a bad connection
(Intermittent, poor contact) that comes and go, naturally I am taking my profession
Electronics, but on the car, feels similar, arcing? Bad spark plugs?
Also, strong gas smell on tailpipe.
I will be back working on the car soon, when ice goes, they said another snow is coming.

Your thought process makes a lot of sense. Were you able to check the wires (specifically cylinder for arcing or damage? You know, it could be a fuel pressure issue as well or even a faulty injector.

If you clear the P0306, does the same code always come back?

By the way, it's going to be 2 degrees here tonight, so I totally understand why you don't want to work on it. LOL

However, let me know about the code, the plug wires, and after driving it, you may want to remove cylinder six spark plug to see if it is wet. If it is, then we are losing spark to that cylinder or there is a fuel pressure/injector issue.

Hang in there. We'll get it figured out. I may have already asked, but do you have a live data scan tool? If you do, could you provide the coolant temperature signal and the short-term fuel trims? If you are smelling gas in the exhaust, we need to consider fuel as a possible issue, but I think it's, like you mentioned above, a poor connection.

Take care and keep warm,

Joe

Joe, I really want to work on my car, I went out today, opened the hood, was about to check the wiring and you know what. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr no way Jose, wait until tomorrow!!
But I drove slowly to the bowling alley (10-15 minutes from here) and he started with
let's called the Hiccups, and then is like he engages and was driving smoothly around 40
MPH, when you hit a red light, then you can hear the noise and hiccups, I even stopped
at the supermarket to get a couple of things and was smooth coming home again.
(As long you not getting a hill and need power)

Hi,

Make sure not to drive it too much. If the problem is fuel-related, too much can damage the catalytic converter.

Take care and stay warm!!! It's -2 tonight here.

Joe

Well, I read the codes again, and again Cylinder #6 miss-firing but.
P0351 that's the ignition coil but pointing at cylinder 1?
Okay, let's put 2 and 2 together, alternator, low voltage like an overload.
Do you get my drift? This may have been the original problem that overloaded
the alternator, so I went and grabbed a new coil pack, and also a spark plug.
Now if the weather lets me, I will do it in a few, by the way, dam Root-Row (My car's name)
when up to 45 -50 with no hesitation or problem, but always the fix firing at low revolutions.

Hi,

It could be the coil pack. Do me a favor, if the repairs you do make no difference, I want you to follow the diagnostic test below. It's simple.

Let me know what you find and how things turn out for you.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

P0351 Cylinder 1? That was my clue, nothing wrong with cylinder #1. So, you may call me crazy, but I see that someone above is telling me what the problem is and read my theory again. so, without any further testing I went and got the coil pack, put it in, and this baby is flying like before! I put it on the expressway and went smoothly, no vibrations, no nothing! I think my theory on the overloading the diodes on the alternator was right, and the cause of everything was the coil pack. What do you think my friend?

I think you have done it!!! Good job!!! The idea of overloading is questionable, but you got it working properly again, and that is what matters.

Regardless, I'm happy to know it is running properly again for you. Please feel free to come back anytime in the future if you have questions or need help. You are always welcome here.

Take good care of yourself,

Joe

Thanks, I want to say thanks to 2CarPros, and especially to you for your great service, and help.
Now if you want to become my friend, please do so by locating "Gondar Person" on Facebook, but no tech talking there, anything tech will be here at 2CarPros.
I just would like people to know you, and how you did.
Forever Thanks.. Now today is Tuesday League Day, so before I go, wish me luck on the bowling league, I am trying to break my own record of 218 on game 1, 205 on game 2, and 161 on the last one. Take care my friend.

Hi,

I wish I had a thousand more as appreciative as you. You are very welcome and I'm glad to have (indirectly) met you. Good luck on the record. I think my highest score was around 125. I'm not too good. LOL

I hope you come back in the future if you need help. You are always welcome here.

Take good care of yourself,

Joe