Alternator Charging issues?

Yup, I am aware about how PCM regulates. Sulfaction mode means it goes to standby 13.2 basically limp mode for 45 minutes, as the PCM tries to restudy the data of current and battery state before returning back to normal operation, according what I've read.

The 4000-watt amp going into protect from day one was one wonder, as my lithium bank is much stronger than my agm bank I had, as well as my alternator is currently bigger, yet I never had issues with my previous system in different car non PCM regulated.

I've tried to install an RVC, told it to charge at 128hz 80% which brought voltage to steady 14.8. With it installed, yes, I could control the voltage, but during heavy bass I would see 11.5v. Without the RVC the voltage would dip to 13.6 to 13.8 with music before amp went into protect mode.

I've since changed amps, 3 days into the install, Voltage started going down to 13.0-13.2 which essentially is discharging my lithium's to only 20% capacity. Sometimes I see the battery light, sometimes I don't. But as it's going down, I try to pull over and restart the car.

The car would do this when I initially got it, I had to sand down the pillar A grounds, and front passenger pillar grounds and added more engine grounds and it made voltage always hold 14.6. Just recently it started always dipping to 13.2, within 1 minute maximum of car running its down to 13.2 and not going to unless the car is restarted.

If I go with an alternator where they switch it from a 2 pin to 4 pin that I self-wire, will that bypass this PCM system and allow alternator to always put output? I'm aware of the battery light thing, but they supply a box where you plug factory harness in to trick the light to stay off. I just need to know if it will bypass the PCM regulation, because I'm all out of ideas why everything keeps going into protect before its voltage threshold, and why my car can't keep the power held.

I even tested the lithium batteries with an AutoZone tester, it can't test lithium, but I used the deep cycle agm setting and drew 600cca from it, and they each pull 1250 cca and tester reads good. Connections solid, and my grounds should be good. Aside from maybe diodes or brushes worn, or the PCM regulation, idk why it's not charging properly as lithium discharges fastest, and technically PCM should detect it requires more voltage to keep up, but it doesn't.

Yes, I do believe the lithium is fooling the PCM as even with low voltage it is capable of producing the amps the car needs, but voltage just stays low.

Aside from that the car acts fine even when voltage hits too low. But the battery light sometimes comes on at 13.2 when it sits there and doesn't regain, but I know its somewhat charging as it hovers between 13.3 and 13.2 just doesn't regain sometimes. Other times It can rest at 13v flat without battery light coming on.

Unfortunately, the traverse lacks room to fit 2 alternators cleanly. Also, I have just pure lithium as my bank, I never isolated anything as when components work together, in theory it should be stronger linked than isolated. Just can't mix chemistries lithium with acid or agms. Even when my lithium was discharged to 10.9v when the key was on when my sound system was being installed, the car fired right up as if voltage wasn't even low. So, it has capacity I believe.

I'll keep driving it as is, I was thinking of getting the mechman elite 370a alt for my traverse, They have a bypass for dash lights and factory plug, but they turn the 2 pin into a 4 pin and I have to wire it to ignition. Do you think the PCM will still be able to read with the factory harness disconnected or bypassed? Because that's my goal, as even though low voltage is okay, my sound system draws a lot of power. So, if it's at 13.2v and charging, when the bass hits, it will drop well in 10v range where if it charged at 15v at all times and wasn't regulated, max drop would and should be low 13s and regain instantly as batteries are heavily discharged.

Thanks for your time and your inputs, means a lot to me, especially when I don't have anywhere else to really turn! (: In the photo I'm holding 14.5 after cars been running for 15 minutes now. Compared to how it was 2 days ago, it's not dropping anymore. When it did it was from the heavy bass in idle, dropped hard, didn't regain. Restart the car, see 14.8 then starts dropping to 13.2. Now the car goes to 15.2v cold start, settles at 14.5 14.6 as it should. I do'nt know what happened, I guess the system relearned the chemistry.

I have 2 of these I know, looks like wires everywhere, So many wires, lol.

Thanks, I'll keep you in the loop! Today started dropping again, but if you don't give it time to drop like put it in drive and go after the start up (or restart after the car is warmed up) voltage stays 14.5 at all times, even at lights. I'm just going to get the mechman, as I hear nothing but greatness from them, and we shall see what happens!

Thank you Merry Christmas!