If you're referring to the Philips screw between two stud holes, that's an import car thing. They're used to prevent the rotors from falling off when the car is flipped over on the assembly line. They aren't needed after that. Domestic manufacturers use a pair of spring-metal washers on two of the studs for the same purpose. They get cut off and discarded at the first brake job.
Ford rotors commonly have a very tight fit around the center hole and you may end up pounding them off. That adds a lot of stress to the lower ball joints which are also a high-failure item. If it looks like it's going to take a lot of force to get a rotor off, consider cutting it in half with an angle grinder or an air-powered cut-off tool. You might also be able to use a three-jaw puller along with lighter taps from a hammer to get the rotor off.
Be sure to scrub the hub of all corrosion and scale so the rotor fits squarely against it. If any debris gets stuck in there, the rotor and wheel will wobble. Lug nut tightness is listed in metric and the range listed is so broad as to be of little value. A common value is 95 foot-pounds for steel wheels and 85 foot-pounds if you have cast wheels. Be sure to set them with a click-type torque wrench.
SPONSORED LINKS
Thursday, January 2nd, 2020 AT 11:14 AM
