Changed battery terminal connectors

Tiny
FULLERTIM81
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
After changing battery terminals. (Yes they were put back on correct terminals positive to positive negative to negative) Turned key to start and heard 1 click and lost all power. Looked in fuse box and found 2- 20 amp fuses that are labeled 12v out ignition blown. Disconnected battery, replaced both fuses and reconnected battery and still no power. Should I be looking for a fusible link? The only thing I did different when changing terminals is The positive side has 2 red power wires that were connected to 2 different places on old terminal. When reconnecting to new terminal, I connected both power wires in the same hole on new terminal. Can you please help me?
Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 5:11 AM

2 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

Fuses blow because there is a short to ground on the circuit[s] that the fuse is protecting. This happens because of Ohm's Law, the laws that govern electricity. One of Ohm's laws states that if one of the three properties of electricity is constant[Voltage - Voltage remains constant in an automotive electrical circuit(battery voltage 12V)] and one of the last two properties goes down[Resistance - resistance goes to zero as there is direct path back to the negative battery terminal] then the last property must go up proportionally[Amperage - amperage goes to battery amperage]. The amperage rating of the fuse is overcome and "pop" the fuse melts, or blows, and there is an open in the circuit, protecting it, just like it was designed to. I am guessing that even though the terminals were installed correctly, that there is an internal short in the battery, and it is no good. I would recommend replacing the battery and then the two fuses and report back with how everything turns out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 12:27 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Be aware too that fuses often blow when reconnecting the battery due to the current surge when computers' memory circuits charge up. This is especially likely when two or more blow at the same time, and they were okay before the battery service. Fuse link wires are used for their slow-blow characteristic, so don't expect to see any of them burned open.

By your description of the current problem, this is real common on all car brands when the smaller positive battery wire going to the under-hood fuse box has a loose or dirty connection. That's the blue arrow in the diagram. Check that first. That can also be confirmed by using a test light to check for 12 volts on any of the fuses. The cheap test light with an incandescent bulb inside is the most accurate tool for this because it needs to be able to draw current to work. Digital voltmeters draw very little current, so they can give a false reading with this type of problem.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 1:23 PM

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