Check engine light on and codes P2004 and P2008

Tiny
RICKY ALLEBACH
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD FOCUS
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
So I've done some good reading online and this seems to be common but has me stumped. I recently bought the car with the check engine light on and a rough idle. It has thrown both p2004 and p2008 intermittently. One of the solenoids was bad, so I replaced it and the actuator that opens the runners began working properly. Goes down upon start up and comes up with revs. However, the codes didn't go away. I have checked both solenoids for voltage and am getting about 14.2v. They both have continuity leading me to believe they are working correct. I have tested the vacuum lines using a vacuum pump like for doing brake lines. I assume the two wire plugs one is power and one is just ground? As I only get voltage to one wire on each. I have removed the intake, inspected for cracks/leaks, cleaned runners and replaced gasket but seemed to make no change. I am unsure as to what else could be causing this issue. Anything to test or try would be appreciated. Thanks.
Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 7:19 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
MOTOR MASTER
  • MECHANIC
  • 279 POSTS
Hello my name is Dave
I'm a not quite sure what solenoid you replaced but this code is for the intake runner control actuator. I have attached a link to our tutorial on testing circuit, while it shows it for sensors the same procedure applies to the actuator. https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring . I have also attached diagrams showing the actuator and the disassembly procedure so you can see where the actuator is.It sounds like the actuator is likely faulty however it could also be in the wiring so I would test that first. I hope this helps you find and solve your problem and thank you for using 2CarPros.
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Tuesday, April 30th, 2019 AT 4:40 AM
Tiny
RICKY ALLEBACH
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hi dave, thanks for reply. I've attached a photo circling the solenoids. I replaced the one on the right side. I don't believe the actuator is a problem because upon starting the car it goes down and when you rev the engine it comes up (proper function from what I've read). I will check the wire continuity to the actuator.
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Tuesday, April 30th, 2019 AT 1:51 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
I have seen wear the intake gets so gunked up the the actuators can work. I would check the operation and then remove the intake manifold to clean it and reinstall. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on, that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.
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Thursday, May 2nd, 2019 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
RICKY ALLEBACH
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I have already removed the intake and looked at the flaps inside. I saw what the worn out ones looked like in some youtube videos and this was not like that. It was dirty but didn't seem blocked or worn out. I cleaned it up and reinstalled with a new gasket. No change.
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Thursday, May 2nd, 2019 AT 4:22 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
In the vacuum line there is a check valve can you remove it and try to blow through it both ways? If you can its bad and needs to be replaced. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.
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Friday, May 3rd, 2019 AT 12:11 PM
Tiny
RICKY ALLEBACH
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Where is this check valve located? On which vacuum line?
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Wednesday, May 8th, 2019 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
It might not have one they had a production split here are the diagrams, the running are not working due to vacuum are stuck internally. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? That would be great. You can upload it here with your response.
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Thursday, May 9th, 2019 AT 1:02 PM

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