radio replacement?

Good morning,

This video will help

https://youtu.be/jF_sDSS0n7I

2002-2006 are the same.

You will need to get the radio access code when you purchase the radio. If you do not and do not enter the code, the radio will not work.

Roy

Removal and Installation

1. NOTE: Make sure the ignition switch is in the off position.

Remove the center instrument panel finish panel.

2. Remove the 2 screws and the audio unit.
Disconnect the audio unit electrical connectors and the antenna lead-in cable.
To install, tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).

3. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

how do you remove the radio of a 2000 ford explorer

If there's four small holes, two on each side, you need special tools that go in there.

can i buy the tool at a parts store?

Yup. I just saw a pair last night on Ebid.com for 15 bucks. I paid around 8 bucks for mine a long time ago.

I have a 1998 Ford Explorer that I took the stock radio out of. I am trying to install a new stereo but everything I find online says the "constant" wire is light green but I have no light green wire. Does anyone know what colors the constant and switch wires are in this car? Thanks!

There are 5 different radio wiring system and all of them indicates that the power (hot at all times) is a Light Green/Purple wire. It is a light green wire with a purple stripe.

Is your system with or without CD changer?
Is it Base or Premium radio system?

Switch wire is Yellow/Black.

One simple way of testing the is to use a test lamp or DVOM to check the wires with ignition OFF and ON.

Electrical problem
1997 Ford Explorer All Wheel Drive Automatic ?? miles

How do I remove the factory stereo and speakers?

You need to remove the bezel around the radio then it unbolts and unplugs. As far as speakers, remove the door panels to access them. They are bolted to the doors.

I recently purcahsed a new sony radio and had the electronic store install it in a Honda Accord. Five hours after it was installed the battery was dead. The battery is about five to six weeks old an the auto store ran a diag. test on the battery (charge / start system) and found no problems. Can a new radio not properly installed drain the battery? Who should I take the car to for inspection? (Battery dealer or the electronic store)?

Either the person who installed the radio made a mistake or you could have a faulty radio.

check the module for the problem under the hood on the wheel well or on the firewall its a square looking box and it controls it and they do have problems with it my company had to replace 2 of them go to the ford parts dept i think its called a control module they just do what is happening to you hope this helps good luck fuel pumps don’t go bad that many times

need to know how speakers get hooked into radio. all slots on rear of radio are connected. where do 8 speaker wires go?

are you trying to install an aftermarket stereo? if so you can go to walmart and get a wiring kit that will plug into existing vehical harnes, and will be color coordinated to the after market radio. ford has all diff wirring colors depending on make/year

Try Crutchfield.com they have all the adapters your need

good luck with figuring that out! the wires color cordinating system is bs. I also have a 1994 ford explorer and mine didnt have a radio in it at all when i bought it. I had to kinda play with it and figure out the wires and since the factory harness was cut when i bought it i had no choice. Your best bet is buy a wiring harness or better yet re wire your speakers yourself! That was my option because once i figured the wires out due to the built in amplifiers with my "premium factory sound system" (i was only missing the factory tape deck) the balance and fader controls wouldnt work right....so i just ran new 14gauge speaker wires to the doors...and now it doesnt do me any good cuz i have external amps for everything lol...best bet wiring harness!

Was installing a new radio but there is no power going through the radio wires. I cannot afford for someone to do it so I am hoping you guys can help me. Is there a fuse or a short? Because some of the fuses have no power getting to them either.

Check for twelve volts on the light green/yellow wire. That should be there all the time. If it is missing, check for twelve volts on both sides of fuse, . . . Well, this is just dandy. The diagram is really hard to read, but it looks like this is fuse # 1 in the inside fuse box. It should be a blue 15-amp. There are two tiny holes on top for test points. If you find twelve volts on only one of them, that fuse is blown. If you find zero volts on both test points, we will need to work back further.

Check for twelve volts on the yellow/black wire. That should only be there when the ignition switch is in the "run" or "accessory" position. If that is missing, check for twelve volts on fuse # 11, another 15-amp. Let me know what you find.

Okay, found what you were talking about. I have constant power but now my ignition is out now out, all fuses been replaced and ignition still showing no sign of power. But something strange happened when I hooked up the harness to constant power it blew my interior lights. Might have speaker wires on wrong. Oops! do you know the speaker wires diagram which is front left, front right, rear left and rear right? Thank you for the help.

What do you mean, "the ignition is out"? The ignition is a system. When you hooked up a harness, are you referring to a replacement radio or something else?

Here is the radio wiring diagrams from AllData. The first one is for the standard radio. The second one is for the "Premium" radio with a remote amplifier.

Okay, from my experience constant power is to save memory and data and the ignition wire is supposed to power up the radio when the car is on constant power works fine just popped the fuse but it will turn the ignition but the ignition twelve volt wire coming out of the dash is not getting any power. I checked the fuse and there is no power to the fuse. If I had light I would take a picture but it is really dark, but sum it up the wire only gets power when I turn the key (which it will turn the key wire does not get any power). I do not have the factory harness it was torn off by old owner, I am hard wiring it.

You are making my head spin.

"but sum it up the wire only gets power when I turn the key (which it will turn the key wire does not get any power"

If you never have twelve volts on the yellow/black wire, and fuse # 11, has no voltage on either side, the likely suspect is the ignition switch. The part of it that feeds the radio's switched twelve volts also feeds the delay wiper circuit, the rear wiper and washer circuit, and the power windows, if you have those. If all of those systems are out too, head to the ignition switch's connector. You will find twelve volts on the yellow wire feeding it. You are supposed to get twelve volts on its black/light green wire when switched to the "run" or "accessory" positions.

Okay, getting a little more understanding of it. I have my constant all my windows and everything work. All I need is to get the switched twelve volt power that is all I need, sorry have a tendency to talk over my head. All I need is that switched twelve volt that is what I am trying to diagnose everything works perfect except the switched twelve volt.

Somewhere along the line fuse 11 is blown, it is making poor contact in its socket, or that yellow/black wire is cut. If the delayed wipers work, that proves the ignition switch is okay.

I will be back tomorrow to see how you are doing.

Hey, I took some pictures of the wires and the radio. None of the wires have power now. Hopefully by seeing the pictures it would help you out helping me figure it out.

Here are the pictures.

You are overlooking something very basic. You have to have 12 volts all the time on the light green/yellow wire, and there must be 12 volts on the yellow/black when the ignition switch is on. If the interior lights work, the light green/yellow circuit has to be okay. If you are finding 0 volts all over, check what you're using for ground for your meter or test light. On a lot of Ford products you will see a metal bar running along the bottom of the dash assembly, but that bar does not actually bolt to the body, so it cannot be used for any ground circuits.

The light green wire has power through it and works fine. Still struggling with the ignition/switched power I cannot seem to find a diagram for the inner fuse box but everything the ignition is connected to works, but the previous owner told me when he was messing with it. That wire has gotten red hot before. I do not know where that wire leads so I cannot really find if there is a fried part of the wire somewhere.

And accidentally made a mistake with the vehicle information it has a v6 motor not a four cylinder.
If that resolves any confusion.

We often need to know the engine size to get the right wiring diagrams and parts lists, but not in this case.

Oh; that adds another dimension to this sad story. I used to tell my students it was not proper to run a new wire to solve a problem. The defect in the old wire must be found because whatever happened to it is likely to happen to the others in that harness. Common things are a harness fell down and was rubbing on the sharp edge of a metal bracket, it fell onto hot exhaust parts, or a screw got run through that harness. How long will it be before the same thing happens to the next wires in that harness, and where will your customer be on a dark Saturday night when he's broke down on the side of the road?

In this case we can assume the defect was caused by operator error, and while a hot wire will melt the insulation on adjacent wires, we are probably safe in assuming if no other damage has shown up in those other wires this far, they will likely be okay. This would be an appropriate time to run a new power wire for your radio.

The light green/yellow wire is for the radio's memory circuit so it is always live. My question is if the yellow/black switched power wire got red hot, why did the fuse not blow? That is just a 15-amp fuse. 15 amps will not turn that wire red hot.

Would touching the constant and switched together cause that? Because when I removed the old radio all the wires were clumped together and exposed. About the fuse; I tested all the fuses in the interior fuse box and two of the places where the fuses go are not reading any power when the car is on or off.

Touching two wires with the same voltage will not hurt anything. All that can happen is one of the circuits will not turn off when it should.

Okay, real question of all this, how do I get my switched/ignition twelve volts to work? What will I need? What do I need to replace? Where can I find it, and how do I get it re-operational? Would it hurt anything to make my own switch off of the constant power?

Hey, what wires coordinate with the speakers? I got everything resolved, but I got the speakers wires wrong. I tried the diagram but does not show which color.

Sorry that the diagrams reproduced too small to read.

Left front speaker is orange/light green and light blue/white.
Left rear is pink/light green and tan/yellow.
Right front is white/light green and dark green/orange.
Right rear is orange/red and black/white.