Car will not start

90,000 MILES • 4.0L • V6 • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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HISTORYBUFF49
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Okay, a couple months ago my vehicle would not start. It cranks like it wants to but will not. I have replaced the fuel pump, replaced radiator and fuel filter. After that it started and was able to drive it but it stalled and had to have it towed home. So then I replaced the coil pack and it started. When I shut it off it would not start again. So then I tried replacing the spark plugs, battery, crankshaft censors, tested relays and fuses, then dropped the tank cleaned it out. I had previously replaced the starter, then I bought more new spark plugs and changed the wires. It still cranks but will not start. I am getting juice to the coil but no spark to the plugs.

I have already spent over $400.00 on it. A diagnostic tester is not going to work as it does not run. I am wondering if maybe the coil is bad and I need to buy another one? Or am I missing something?

Thank you for any help you could give me.

Larry.
Nov 28, 2017 at 7:44 AM
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CARADIODOC
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
  • 34,413 POSTS
Your comment about the diagnostic tester is incorrect. A scanner is exactly what we use for crank/no-start problems. Its use has nothing to do with whether the engine will run. In fact, about eighty percent of the time we do not need the engine to be running for the tests we need to do.

The first thing you need to do is read and record the diagnostic fault codes. If you are lucky, there will be a code related to the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft synchronizer, but the codes for them often do not set just from cranking the engine. They typically set when a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. If a code was set previously, it got erased when you disconnected the battery to replace it.

If there is no fault code related to this problem, the scanner will show the sensor readings in real time, and you can watch the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft synchronizer to see if their signals are showing up during cranking. If one signal is missing, that sensor is the best suspect, but first we have to rule out wiring and connector terminal problems. If both signals are missing, we know it is not likely both sensors failed at the same time. A broken wire feeding both sensors is the better suspect.
Nov 28, 2017 at 7:59 AM
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