Suddenly went into a flashing Neutral position with limited acceleration, should I have another drain and fill done or should I leave the.

Tiny
KIWASABI1
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 231,000 MILES
Hello 2CarPros,

About a week ago when driving about 65 on a hill, my car suddenly went into a flashing Neutral position with limited acceleration, which I was told was transmission limp mode. The Check Engine Light also came on, and I had codes for Shift Solenoid C and D. I then had my car checked out by a transmission shop on Thursday, and they couldn't reproduce any issues. They also told me they checked the resistance on all the shift solenoids, and they all came back within the proper parameters. It was kind of funny because they basically gave me the option of a complete transmission rebuild, or to just pick my car up free of charge as is, so I opted to just pick it up. Anyway, back in mid 2020 I got the transmission checked out by a different transmission shop, who also found no issues. They just recommended a drain and fill of the transmission fluid, which I did. Now this only replaces about half of the fluid that a full flush would. So now here I am about 25,000 miles and 2 years later, and I've been told the fluid looks dark and burned again. So, should I have a new drain and fill performed? I've been told by the recent transmission shop that it's a gamble to replace the fluid when I'm already having issues. However, someone on 2CarPros also told me "Don't let anyone tell you not to replace the fluid, that's a racket trying to get you more severe problems that you then pay them to fix". So, what's the truth here? Should I have another drain and fill done? Or should I leave the fluid alone until I need to completely rebuild the transmission? For what it's worth, the transmission is working great overall, I just had that one random incident and nothing since.

Thanks,

Adam
Monday, July 18th, 2022 AT 10:04 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,645 POSTS
Hi Adam,

As far as the issue is concerned, you could have a weak electrical connection. By any chance, do you know what codes were found? I can tell you (and this is from memory) there were recalls on the transmission cooler and cooling lines. Something could be restricted. That's why I would like to know the codes they found. It may be on your receipt.

Also, has the filter in the transmission been changed rather than just a drain and fill?

As far as what you were told about not changing it, there are situations where the fluid has never been changed, is black, and extremely dirty. If there are a lot of miles on the vehicle, changing the fluid can cause the clutches to slip because there is a cleaner in the new fluid which will remove the dirt from worn clutches. At least that is the theory. LOL However, on the flip side, I wouldn't just drain and fill it without replacing the filter as well. If it is partially plugged, it can cause pressure issues.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,

joe
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Monday, July 18th, 2022 AT 2:24 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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Hi Joe,

Thanks for your helpful response. I did have the filter replaced when I had the drain and fill done back in 2020. And it certainly didn't cause new problems to come about. I would say that overall the drivability improved a bit if anything.

The codes are:
P0760 shift solenoid c
P0765 shift solenoid d

I just searched for my vin in the recall search, and there are 2 recalls currently. One is actually related to the automatic transmission:

Manufacturer recall number sr-01-005
NHTSA recall number 01v011001
Recall status recall incomplete
Summary
On affected vehicles, the manufacturing process for the automatic transmission oil cooler hoses allowed a weakness to be present in the internal hose reinforcement. Over time, this weakness can cause automatic transmission fluid (atf) leakage.

Safety risk
ATF leakage in the presence of an ignition source could result in a fire.

Remedy
The dealership will replace the automatic transmission cooler hose assembly (and securing bracket on 1999 Galant vehicles).

Thanks,

Adam
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Monday, July 18th, 2022 AT 2:31 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Do me a favor, if they will still cover the repair under the original recall, have it done, and let's see if it changes anything.

If they are replacing the hose, that would be a good time to have the system serviced as well.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe
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Monday, July 18th, 2022 AT 9:31 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
  • MEMBER
  • 198 POSTS
Hi Joe,

That makes sense. Actually, I had the offer to have it done last time I was at the dealership, which was in 2020. But they had to order the parts and it wasn't convenient, so I didn't go back. That's a good idea to start with the recall repair on the transmission hose and go from there. Thanks for the advice and take care.

Adam
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Monday, July 18th, 2022 AT 9:50 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Adam,

You are very welcome. If possible, let me know how things turn out for you. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe
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Monday, July 18th, 2022 AT 9:54 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
  • MEMBER
  • 198 POSTS
Hi Joe,

I ended up getting the transmission cooling hose(s) recall done at the dealer. I also had them do a transmission drain and fill. Evidently Mitsubishi does recommended drain and fills for this transmission, not a flush. And every 30,000 miles they said. It has been only 2 years and 15,000 miles since I did the last drain and fill. However, this only removes half the dirty fluid. Before that I had done a transmission flush about 100,000 miles earlier. So, it still had half super old fluid in there.

After the shift solenoid codes were erased a week ago, they haven't come back yet. Although it was driving on the freeway uphill in the mountains which triggered the symptoms in the transmission. The transmission shop said it may have just been a bubble in the fluid or something like that. They said the shift solenoids all tested as within range.

Thanks,

Adam
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Wednesday, July 20th, 2022 AT 5:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

A bubble in the fluid and it was a transmission shop? That's a new one for me. Here is what I suggest. Since the codes haven't come back, they checked the shift solenoids, and you changed the fluid/filter, keep driving it to see if they return. I have a feeling there was a pressure issue that set those codes. Hopefully, it was a one-time deal for you, and by having the fluid changed and the hose, it won't return.

Let me know if the lights return.

Take care,

Joe
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Wednesday, July 20th, 2022 AT 8:39 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
  • MEMBER
  • 198 POSTS
Hi Joe,

Here's the update on the transmission and car in general. 6 months ago, we replaced my intake manifold with a junkyard part and that went out completely (it broke off entirely where it connects to the throttle body). Thankfully, this happened at my mechanic's when I was getting the brakes done. I had noticed while driving in the mountains that weekend before that it started shifting really strangely, the RPMs would increase upwards at the end of the shift, like the transmission was slipping. So, I thought the transmission had gotten worse. Anyway, we replaced the intake manifold with a brand-new old stock OEM intake manifold, and all my shifting issues went away. It's shifting like a dream now. I haven't had the shift solenoid code again, and I think we found the culprit of the P0442 code (fuel pressure regulator is leaking, which I ordered a new one).

The only remaining issue is the same low idle problems I've fought for like 8 years now. When the mechanic put my car back together, he reset the base idle speed screw to its default position. So early yesterday morning I was sitting at about 400 RPMs, and it was trying to stall out on me. So, I got a Phillips screwdriver and loosened the BISS a few turns and raised the idle about 300 RPMs. This is kind of a hacky way to fix it, but it at least keeps it from stalling out (this is what we had to do six months ago to stop this issue as well). The most recent thing I did to try and fix this was replacing the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, but the issue still persists. I've already replaced the IAC and TPS multiple times. I know for sure the TPS is good, I may try replacing the IAC again. Anyway, this just seems to be some design flaw with these cars. I've seen a ton of threads about the low idle problems in the 2001 through 2005 Eclipses, and never seemed to see any actual resolutions added to the threads. It's my theory that it's these low idle stalling issues along with the intake manifold failures that's causing so many of these cars to end up in junkyards. Anyway, as always thanks for your help and take care.

Adam
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Wednesday, September 14th, 2022 AT 6:30 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Thanks for the update. I'm glad to hear the transmission wasn't the issue. As far as the low idle, wait until you get the new pressure regulator. That may fix the issue.

The regulator is on the fuel rail. I attached a pic below and highlighted it.

Let me know if that takes care of the low idle issue.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.
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Wednesday, September 14th, 2022 AT 6:52 PM

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