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Car was running fine until a rodent chewed through my spark plug wires, replaced all 6 now won't start

Tiny
TEEVEE22
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MAZDA MILLENIA
  • 2.5L
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
The car turns over fine but acting out of gas
I checked the following:
Firing order - good
Fuel pump - pumping gas when in start mode
Spark - has spark at all six plugs
I removed the fuel system relay and tried to turn over but still wouldn't start
There seems to be fuel on the plugs also? Was thinking flooding issue so I tried to floor it while turning over and still no start.
And I did have oil in the spark plug holes which I think is from a valve cover leak but I have cleaned that all out now and re-cleaned plugs. Could this affect something with the spark?

My CEL light is on but this was also on before this issue and car was still running good. I think that is related to the MAF sensor. I have been having to clean it recently also.

Questions.
Would this rodent have caused a short somewhere else? I did try and turn the car over before noticing that the wires had been chewed through, could this have messed up a sensor or something else somewhere?

Do I have a bad camshaft position sensor and how would I check this? And would this affect it turning over somehow?

It has tried a couple of times to actually fire but to no avail. It almost seems like it acts better when I give it a little gas while trying to crank over.

Please help! Thank you



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Saturday, January 4th, 2014 AT 8:07 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Did you replace one wire at a time to make sure the wires didn't get mixed up?Also I would still Check for codes even if the check engine light was already on.A mass air flow sensor issue will cause a no start. No telling what else a rodent could have chewed.
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Saturday, January 4th, 2014 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
TEEVEE22
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thanks for your response. Here's further update.

Got a scanner from O'Reillys, showed code P1195 and this:
1. BARO Sensor Circuit 2
EGR Boost Sensor Circuit

Replaced the Boost sensor with one from the junkyard and still will turn over but acts out of gas.

I erased the code with the scanner so the CEL light is still on but now not reading any codes, the P1195 is the only code that was shown before.

It does look like the Boost sensor and the MAP sensor are two different pieces on this car so I will try that next I think. What is the BARO sensor circuit 2? And where would this be located? How would I go about checking this?

I replaced the fuel pump yesterday so the fuel system is now completely replaced and getting good spark.

Please help, thank you.
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Friday, January 10th, 2014 AT 8:30 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
So you have a turbo engine?A bad baro reading would cause a no start.
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Friday, January 10th, 2014 AT 9:01 AM
Tiny
TEEVEE22
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
No, it is not a turbo. 2.5L V6 mazda.

Can you help me locate the baro sensor so I can replace it and see if that works?

Would the crankshaft position sensor cause a no start?

Thanks for the help.
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Friday, January 10th, 2014 AT 11:59 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
For that code its actually the egr boast sensor which gives feed back how the egr is working. Like egr feed back sensors on the fords hooked to engine vacuum and exhaust pressure. It wont keep it from starting doesnt look like there is a baro sensor don't see one. Lets recap whats your actual fuel pressure?Do you have injector pulse?Good spark?Whats your compression readings?
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Friday, January 10th, 2014 AT 2:36 PM
Tiny
TEEVEE22
  • MEMBER
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I do have good spark on all plugs.

I don't know how to measure fuel pressure, injection pulse, or compression readings unless you can direct me somehow.

Still won't start, tried playing with it today. Cleaned MAF sensor and no change. It does try to fire while cranking at times just won't quite get there. It did run fully two days ago up and down the road but then when it warmed up it bogged down and eventually died. Now still no start.

When I unplug the boost sensor it doesn't fire at all, only cranks but when I plug it back in, it again does try to fire sometimes.

Thanks
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Friday, January 10th, 2014 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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Unless they use it as some kind of map sensor or something then that makes no sense so do you have a scan tool that can read live data like what the sensor reads?
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Friday, January 10th, 2014 AT 3:17 PM
Tiny
TEEVEE22
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  • 6 POSTS
The only scanner I can get on loan is the OBD 2 from O'reillys. After I cleared the P1195 code it won't recognize any more codes.

It looks like there are two sensors mounted to the firewall, one is the boost sensor and the other is the MAP I think. I have yet to replace this one to see if this is my problem. Will try and get this one replaced today. They both connect with vacuum hoses.

Double checked spark yesterday and that is all good also. Getting fuel on the plugs so I'm pretty sure injection is working as it should plus car was running great before the wires got chewed through. I hate electrical gremlins!

Any more ideas? Thanks for continuing to help me.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2014 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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If it ran fine with no codes before the chewed spark plug wires and your sure the wires are routed correctly. Then you really need to look hard for more chewed damaged wires.
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Sunday, January 12th, 2014 AT 8:07 AM
Tiny
TEEVEE22
  • MEMBER
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Further update:

I have replaced both the map/boost sensors with ones from the junkyard, still no start.
I disconnected the first stage catalytic and still no start. I was only able to disconnect it from the bolt flange after it but still no change.
I switched out the crank position sensor with one from the junkyard also and still no start.
It does seem to "crank better/really try to start" when it is fresh and hasn't been turned in a day or two. This better sounding attempt fades after several start attempts and then it doesn't get as close to starting thereafter.

I have also disconnected the air box and covered the air intake to identify any sort of vapor lock but still no change. I did this when I first got it to start after replacing the plug wires and it worked to get it started but now it doesn't help me any more.

Any further help? I'm getting ready to have the car taken into a mechanic but I really can't afford that right now.

Should I replace the ecu?

Please help me, and thank you.
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Saturday, January 25th, 2014 AT 4:38 PM

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