Car starts in acc position?

Was it doing this before the new parts? Does it have anything like an aftermarket alarm or remote start? From the description it sounds like either the switch connector or wiring is shorted or perhaps the start relay is fused shut.
To start testing we will pull the start fuse from the fuse block under the left side of the dash and see if it still does it. If it stops then I would look at the connector to the switch real close to see if one of the pins got bent and is shorting in the connector.

Thanks but I haven't had the chance to fix it yet but when I do I will let you know.

No rush, update us as and when you can.

Just took the start fuse out and checked and it didn't do it, so what's next?

Images of connector on the switch.

Okay, so you pulled the fuse, and it stopped trying to start in ACC? In that case take a test light connected to ground and go to the start fuse again. Turn the key to ACC and then touch both of the contacts where the fuse was. Watch the light, now turn the key to start and hold it and probe again. If the light comes on in ACC there is a problem in the switch or its wiring. It should only come on in start. You said the switch was replaced? Was that for this same issue and is the switch OEM of aftermarket?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

No, it wasn't for the same reason someone tried to steal or crank it with a flathead screwdriver, and we had to replace the switch after that, but it wasn't doing that when the switch was replaced it started doing that months after.

We even replaced that switch again recently.

Okay, you replaced the key cylinder and the ignition switch and after sometime this issue developed. Was anything else done? Like an aftermarket alarm or stereo? The reason I ask is that based on pulling the start fuse stopping this, there has to be some spot where the power from the accessory circuit is bridging to the starter circuit. It could even be two wires rubbed together in the harness but only through testing will we track it down.

No aftermarket alarm or aftermarket stereo all of that is original that's why I don't understand myself but hopefully stick with me please because she really needs this fix so she can be okay, and I can be okay so if you can whatever you can do help me, please.

Oh, and I just want to thank you for responding and going this far with me and sticking with me. Thank you so much

When it first started for a minute the starter got replaced okay then it still was doing it so we replaced it ignition switch still doing it and the other day when I cranked it I checked it out I started it in the start position and turn it back to on and it didn't do it so I was like okay it's great now but when we drove it for a while then cut it off at any store or anything after that when I turned it off and cranked it up started doing it again.

I forgot to mention that it cranks in ACC it actually starts only thing will make it stop it when you put it in reverse and drive.

Okay, based on everything so far, the issue isn't in the starter or the starting circuit itself. It has to be in the switch or the wiring harness. The fact that it stopped doing it but then it came back also suggests it's in the wiring. What it sounds like is that power is jumping from the acc/run circuit side of the switch to the start circuit. The problem could be right in the harness near the switch. Another question, when you turn the key and the starter turns the engine over, does the starter stop turning if you move the key to the run position? If you cannot tell, you could remove the SNSR fuse 3 in the fuse box under the hood, that would disable the fuel injectors so that the engine won't start. If you turn the key to ACC and it keeps trying to start in the ACC and ON then it's a short in the wiring.

Could it be the wires on the starter?

Nope. If they were the cause it wouldn't respond to the key or fuse and it wouldn't be intermittent.

I did what you said I removed the start fuse and used the tester light turned it to ACC no response did it would start a little but no response for ACC so tell me something at this point I need some help.

I'm sorry it's not doing it in acc it's doing it in the on position it cranks in the on position and stayes engaged unless you put it in reverse or drive and I noticed as you moved the shifter the dash and radio goes blank unless you move it from that position.

Okay, so you turn the key to on and the starter spins and stays spinning unless you shift it. Still not the starter or starter relay circuit but it might be easier to find the fault knowing the starter stays engaged.

Sorry, I'm wrong it cranks and runs as soon as you turn it to the on position.

Okay, that might make it easier as it sounds like the issue is voltage feeding back through the switch. Take a test light and see if there is voltage on the green wire at terminal 1 when the key is in the on position. Disable the injectors as I had you do above (remove SNSR fuse 3) Use a pin or needle to probe into the back of the connector with it connected to test that. The green with in pin 1 should only have power with the key in start. If it has power when the key moves into the run position, then there is a problem in the wiring that feeds the switch. To verify it isn't the switch use a multimeter to check between the same two terminals with the switch unplugged. While rare it could be that the switches are made poorly and causing the problem, although I think it's more likely in the wiring harness itself.

Hey Steve, before I check the wiring could it be in the electrical part of the switch not the lock and key part?

Yes, it could I thought you said you replaces that. I would replace the "switch" apart of the ignition switch. Let us know what happens. Here is how to change the switch out, also if this is not the problem I have seen the junction box on the passenger's side go out and can cause strange issues like this one. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.