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Car stalling?

Tiny
JGARNICA1
  • MEMBER
  • 2013 CHEVROLET MALIBU
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
I drive the car listed above LS model. For about a month now my car has been stalling on me. When I turn it on for the first time it turns on with no problems. Once I drive it for about eight miles and I come to a stop at a red light it completely stalls and when I try to turn it on it sputters. It also tends to vibrate a lot. That’s really all I see.

PS. Sorry for the A/C and music in the video.
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Friday, September 30th, 2022 AT 2:20 PM

19 Replies

Tiny
JGARNICA1
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Also, I should add that every time it stalls the check engine light does not come on.
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Friday, September 30th, 2022 AT 2:44 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,709 POSTS
Hi,

There are a few different things that can cause this to happen.

Have you ever noticed if there was dark gray or black smoke from the exhaust? Any odd odors from the exhaust that may indicate it is running rich (too much fuel to the engine)?

Also, an engine vacuum leak can cause it as well.

Here is a link that explains how to check for vacuum leaks:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know if you have had the computer scanned for diagnostic trouble codes. If you have, let me know what codes were found.

Take care,

Joe

PS: I'm not sure if you attached a video. If you did, for some reason it didn't upload.
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Friday, September 30th, 2022 AT 10:26 PM
Tiny
JGARNICA1
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  • 10 POSTS
Hello Joe! Thank you for replying! No there is no smoke or odor coming from exhaust. Also, I have had a couple mechanics throw on the code scanner and no codes popped up at all. I should mention that I feel like my fuel is wasting too fast. I added the video.
Video (Click to make bigger)
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Saturday, October 1st, 2022 AT 12:56 AM
Tiny
JGARNICA1
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  • 10 POSTS
Once it turns back on, I rev the engine a little so it doesn’t turn back off.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2022 AT 1:34 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,709 POSTS
Okay, if you are using more fuel, there is a chance it is related to high fuel pressure. It would be beneficial if you know someone that has a live data scanner. If so, ask them to check the short-term fuel trims. That will tell me if the computer is trying to compensate for a rich fuel mixture.

If you can't, then we need to check fuel pressure. You will need a fuel pressure gauge, but most parts stores will lend one to you. Here is a link that explains how it's done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Interestingly (afterthought), I would think a code for a rich or lean fuel mixture would be set if this was the issue. However, the higher fuel consumption points me in that direction. Do me one more favor. If you do have access to a live data scan tool, when the vehicle reaches operating temp (approximately 8 miles), have the coolant temperature sensor checked to see if it is reading a temperature that seems close to engine temperature. (approximately 195 F)

If that checks good and the fuel trims are good, then it could be related to a failing crankshaft position sensor. These sensors are affected by heat when they start to fail and that is when you have the stalling issue. Also, there are conditions that prevent the check engine light from indicating a problem when these fail. (it's only a theory at this time. I'm trying to work through things in my mind that may be an issue.

Take a look through this link and let me know if you feel it mirrors what you experience:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know your thoughts.

Take care,

Joe

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Saturday, October 1st, 2022 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
JGARNICA1
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Man, I appreciate all this knowledge you’re throwing at me! I read that you mentioned that it could be the crankshaft position sensor. Well, I checked out the article and all the symptoms literally checked out. On a cold start the car starts fine, but once driven and heated up that’s when it tends to stall once I come to a red light, also when I try to turn it back on it sputters and hesitates. There also is a lot of vibration. It happened where the car check engine light was flashing but I quickly turned it off and when I turned back on it went away. It seems like we’re getting closer to a solution, but I will do the things you suggested first, and I’ll let you know how that goes. Thank you so much for your time and patience!
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Saturday, October 1st, 2022 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

You are very welcome. Let me know when you can. I'm interested in knowing what you find.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, October 1st, 2022 AT 8:49 PM
Tiny
JGARNICA1
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Hello, what is the difference between a cam sensor and the crankshaft sensor?
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Saturday, October 1st, 2022 AT 9:57 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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One is for the camshaft, and one is for the crankshaft. They are two different (major) components in the engine.

The crankshaft is in the lower portion of the engine and is attached to the connecting rods/pistons. The camshaft is what opens the valves in the cylinder heads to allow fuel to enter and exhaust to exit.

Does that make sense?

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2022 AT 1:45 PM
Tiny
JGARNICA1
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Okay got it! Can it be that the both sensors are failing?
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2022 AT 4:38 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,709 POSTS
Hi,

Certainly, but can be failing. However, it's a bit uncommon for them to both fail at the same time.

If you have a camshaft position issue, it should set a code. The crankshaft position may or may not set a code.

Let me know how things work out for you.

Joe
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2022 AT 9:49 PM
Tiny
JGARNICA1
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Hello Joe, it’s me again. So, I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and even cleaned the throttle body sensor. But unfortunately, the car keeps stalling. I did notice something that I did not notice before. Every time the car stalls the battery voltage drops from 14.3 to 12.5. Could it be a wiring issue, alternator or battery problem that may be causing this? Seems like no mechanic can find a solution. Thank you for your time.
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Sunday, October 23rd, 2022 AT 8:28 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Do you mean it drops to 12.5v when the engine stalls? I ask because the 14 is normal with the engine running. Once it is off, the alternator stops producing and you will only see battery voltage.

Let me know. Also, hang in there. I don't give up easily. LOL

Joe
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Monday, October 24th, 2022 AT 6:01 PM
Tiny
JGARNICA1
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Yes, that’s exactly what I meant. I have no clue what it could be.
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Tuesday, October 25th, 2022 AT 1:14 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,709 POSTS
Hi,

That is normal. When running, the alternator produces around 14v. Once the engine stops, the alternator stops charging and you are left with battery voltage. What you described sounds normal.

By any chance, can you get your hands on a live data scan tool?

Joe
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Tuesday, October 25th, 2022 AT 4:56 PM
Tiny
JGARNICA1
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I can try. Can I get it at my local AutoZone or O'Reilly's?
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Wednesday, October 26th, 2022 AT 2:57 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

You can try to see if they have a lend-a-tool program. If they do, hopefully, they will have what we need.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, October 26th, 2022 AT 5:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Do you have the same engine in your vehicle? Do you ever notice a hesitation when driving?

Let me know. There are a few technical service bulletins related to stalling issues. I can dig through them to see if any are relevant once you confirm the engine size.

Also, let me know what the 4 different shops have already replaced. Additionally, let me know if there are any diagnostic trouble codes stored.

Take care,

Joe
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Tuesday, November 1st, 2022 AT 7:41 PM

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