Car shaking when accelerating at 40 MPH

Tiny
KMDAKOTA1
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 198,000 MILES
My car began shaking terribly when accelerating but only up to about 40 MPH then goes away as I pick up speed. If I floor it the shake is really bad regardless of any speed.
Can also feel it at slow coast like a rotational disruption. Tires are about 2 years old and had them rebalanced and did not help. Switched back tires to front and did not help. Ball joints were replaced about 6 months ago with OEM joints. Both CV axles replaced which did not get rid of problem. All engine mounts replace with OEM. Control arm bushings are good no play. New brakes with new slide pins and grease and also new rotors. New rear drums and shoes. I'm at my wits end. Could it be hub bearings? I can load both bearings and no noise. I'm a little worried it's in the transmission. I was driving for a while with a broken upper engine mount so I believe that the side engine was dropped a little low. Could it have damaged the carrier bearing? No seals are leaking. I'm going nuts trying to find this, but the shaking is terrible. Cannot feel it through steering wheel, just the seat and body of car. Alignment is good too. New inner and outer tie rod ends too.
Tuesday, June 21st, 2022 AT 1:49 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

It's odd you only feel it through the seat and not the steering. Since this is the case, I would think it is being caused at the rear of the vehicle.

Have you checked rear wheel bearings? When you are accelerating, there is a weight transfer to the rear. Let me know.

I attached an exploded view of the rear suspension and highlighted things to check. I have a feeling the issue is in the rear. If it was a CV joint, front bearing issue, or anything related to the front, I feel you would notice it in the steering.

Also, I'm not sure where you are located, but if you live in the snow belt where salt is used in the winter, make sure the rear axle isn't damaged.

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, June 21st, 2022 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
KMDAKOTA1
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Thank you for the response! The rear bearings are good I just checked them today. I jacked car up on jack stands and chocked rear wheels. Put the car in drive and let wheels spin. The shaking is there but not as bad as i'm assuming because there's no load on the drivetrain. It's coming from the front I think the passenger side. Checked for bent rim old school style. There's a wobble in the wheel. Swapped front wheels and that wheel wobbles too. Took wheels of completely no shaking. Narrowed it down to the wheels. Upon inspecting the mounting side of wheel I noticed that the backs are corroded badly. The alloy is pitted and not even in many spots where it mounts. I have the chrome 10 spoke wheels i'm assuming they are made from aluminum. The fact is all the wheels are like this I guess from age and yes in Pennsylvania they use a ton of salt on the roads! I don't think the front wheels are mounting perfectly flat on the hub. I'm not sure why this didn't flag when they were balanced. I torqued the lug nuts to 120 ft. Lbs which I usually do at 100lbs. And it did seem to help it's not shaking as bad. Maybe this is why at speeds over 45-50 the shaking goes away? Like a balance problem that corrects itself after speeding up? I'm thinking about higher torque for lug nuts but I'm not sure how high I can go. I do know that my back-alley tire place puts those lugs on with an impact and sometimes I can't even break them with a breaker.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, June 22nd, 2022 AT 12:43 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Welcome to PA. I'm in Pittsburgh. LOL They do corrode. I've had to use a heavy dead blow hammer to remove them more times than I can say. Thank God no one gets a flat.

Don't tighten them more than you have. Spec is 100 ft/lbs. You'll end up breaking one of the studs off.

Remove the wheel, take a wire brush or sandpaper (about 40 grit) and clean the corrosion off. If it is an aluminum wheel, don't go crazy with sandpaper because it will take off the aluminum.

Try that if you haven't already, and yes, I agree. A bent wheel can act like a tire balance issue that you can drive in to and back out of with speed.

Take care and let me know if that helps.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, June 22nd, 2022 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
KMDAKOTA1
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Thank you! I will try this. I've been underneath the car since my last email looking at things again. I put car in neutral and jacked up side I feel it's coming from. Turned wheel back and forth by hand while watching CV joint. There is some play i'm worried about with the joint that goes into transmission. I will try to get it on video and send it. I know some play is normal but i've got a gut feeling that mine isn't normal and the axle is jumping around. I can show you this on video with the car sitting still. Trying to find a way to mount my phone to record while driving so I can see if the shaking corelates with a jumpy axle.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, June 22nd, 2022 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

When making a sharp turn from a stop, do you ever hear a clicking sound? That could indicate an issue with a CV joint. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-cv-axle-joint

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, June 22nd, 2022 AT 7:34 PM
Tiny
KMDAKOTA1
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Here's a short clip of the play transmission side. Does not appear to be coming from output shaft but rather the connection and cup to the axle. Everything is seated. It was a $50.00 axle so maybe it's junk, don't know. No clicking either from joints.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, June 23rd, 2022 AT 10:11 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

Is that play at the input shaft where the axle pushes into the transmission? Are you sure it is fully seated?

Joie
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, June 23rd, 2022 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
KMDAKOTA1
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Yes, it is play at the input shaft but it seems to all be in the cup. I checked the shaft when I had the axle off, and it didn't move. It is fully seated. I looked at reviews online for the brand I bought and there are similar complaints about that inner joint. I ordered a new axle by car quest and spent more money for this one. I will return the other to rockauto. The shaking is coming from the engine jerking on the mounts. I believe the jerking is being caused by that inner cv joint. I had front end up and in gear and accelerated and just slight shaking. I then power braked to create some torque and sure enough there was the shake. I have a video of it I can send you later. I'll update you later this weekend after I replace the axle. Thanks for your replies!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, June 24th, 2022 AT 7:56 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

Thanks for the update. As far as the video is concerned, I would love to see it. If you have a chance, send it.

As far as the axle is concerned, it does sound like that is where the problem is coming from based on what you mentioned. Let me know what happens with the new one.

Take care,

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, June 24th, 2022 AT 8:18 PM
Tiny
KMDAKOTA1
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Well, put the other axle in today. There were some obvious differences between the CarQuest and the track motive. The most obvious was the length. The track motive I had on was about an inch longer than the CarQuest and the inner cup was smaller. I chose to put the CarQuest on because t hats what I put on the other side about a month ago. The stub shaft just fit really loose inside the track motive. It fits great now and it's much tighter and no play anymore. It was a wise choice. But, sad to say it did not fix the problem. Still shaking from 30-50 under acceleration. I had stub shaft in the Trans and checked for play and there was maybe 1mm play but would that little bit of play in the Transmission because that much throw to shake the whole engine? I don't know what else to do. I forgot that I did have struts off and knuckles when I did ball joints and did not have front end alignment after thar I just marked everything. Also I loosened axle nuts and retorqued them on both sides. I am hearing slight humming now. Maybe I'll throw some dollar signs at the hub bearings or should it be front end alignment?

I'm attaching video before I changed axle. You can see in video first seconds running car no power braking. Then I power brake and you can see car steering to shake also exhaust and everything. I just really hope it isn't the tranmission. Never had any problems with it. Had car from brand new. Was taken care of.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, June 26th, 2022 AT 5:55 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

Wow! I do see it. Have you installed the new one yet? Has it taken care of the issue?

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, June 27th, 2022 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
KMDAKOTA1
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Yes, new one on. Did not fix. Going to try a hub bearing driver's side. Would a transmission problem cause this? Also going to see if advance auto will swap drivers side axle. That one is new as well but maybe there is something wrong with that one?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 28th, 2022 AT 7:22 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
If it is in the transmission, you should see movement even with the new axle. Have you checked?

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 28th, 2022 AT 1:46 PM
Tiny
KMDAKOTA1
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Found the problem. The driver's side axle is bad. I just replaced it 2 months ago, so I never thought it to be a problem. Thought to myself today I'll just replace it under warranty to rule it out. Took it off and the inner joint was toast! Couldn't believe it. Anyways put the new one on and the problem fixed!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 28th, 2022 AT 2:29 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Wow. First, I'm glad you found the problem, but I never suspected the new one was the issue. That isn't too common for this type of part.

Regardless, I'm glad you got it fixed. One of my favorite cars I ever owned was a 1989 (showing my age) Cavalier VL. VL stood for value leader. It was the cheapest one they made. 2.2L 5 speed. I bought it off the showroom floor. LOL It cost $6,400.00 out the door and I drove that car all over the country. Consistently, I got over 40 MPG on the highway. It was a great vehicle. Isn't it funny that in 1989 I was able to buy a new car for only 6 grand and it got that kind of mileage? Today, hybrids don't even get that much.

So much for progress. LOL GM knew how to do it back then and for an inexpensive cost. What happened? LOL

Anyway, I'm glad you're fixed up. Take care of yourself and please feel free to come back anytime in the future if you have questions. You are always welcome here.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 28th, 2022 AT 8:02 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links