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Car running hot tried to repair it but still problem persist

Tiny
FARHAN2149
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,645 MILES
The car is Gcc spec 2006. My car issue started after I parked my car for one month and went for vacation. When I came back from vacation after a week of driving suddenly on highway speed my car started running hot, but giving it full acceleration. The temperature gauge comes down to normal on high speed, if I drive normally it’s running hot, accelerating hard it cools down. After that I replaced twice OEM thermostat and radiator cap, the problem still there. The other thing I noticed is upper hose is in good pressure and hot lower is little warm, so no radiator issue. But the radiator cap is not hot at all after driving for long. The other thing I noticed the car warms up normally all the mess up is starting only after the thermostat is opening. Coolant is not circulating properly again. Accelerating hard it’s cool down very quickly and the heater also work. But it take only little time to blow full hot air. I checked the water pump no leak no noise ever and ever the mechanic said the water pump looks fine when he open it. So maybe he never open it and told me lie. So what could be the issue with my car?
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Monday, March 11th, 2019 AT 12:31 AM

12 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Hello,

This sounds like he cooling fan is not coming on. do you hear it running while the engine is hot? Here is a guide to help us get started:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2019 AT 12:41 PM
Tiny
FARHAN2149
  • MEMBER
  • 32 POSTS
As I said the car run hot only on highway speed while slowing down it’s cool down so the fan is not the issue. By the way it winter here now 17 degrees.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2019 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
KIALBARNES
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 163,000 MILES
I changed the thermostat and the water pump and my car is still running hot. But the car doesn't run hot all the time and when it do run hot when I start driving the gauge goes back to normal. I took it to a shop and they did a pressure test and they said it was a block.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2019 AT 6:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the radiator if its clogged if not could be air in the system try bleeding it.

They said it was block-what's causing it
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Thursday, March 14th, 2019 AT 6:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CORBY29569
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 16,000 MILES
The car started running hot and the hoses was real tight almost to bust so I changed the thermostat, now when it is parked running idile the fans comes on and keeps it at average temp, but when I drive it down the road it runs hot and I stop for a min and start driving down the road and the temp falls down to normal for five min then it runs hot again, and also the when we turn the heat on when the car is hot it blows cold air.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2019 AT 6:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi corby29569,

When engine is cold, check the coolant level in radiator. After replacment of thermostat, there is a possibility bleedng was not done resulting in air trapped in system.

If coolant level is low, top it up and start engine without the radiator cap. Turn heater to maximum heat. Top up when coolant level drops as air is being purged. When coolant stabilises, close radiator cap and retest.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2019 AT 6:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FARHAN2149
  • MEMBER
  • 32 POSTS
The level of coolant is not dropping I have bleed it myself no air or bubble it’s been 4months now I’m driving in this condition but regardless of climate sometime car is not running hot gauge stays At one normal point and at idle the fan kicks on right time but sometimes if car run hot then the fan kicks on also late and turning off early even that time the temperature is not cooled properly these are the symptoms
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Friday, March 15th, 2019 AT 12:50 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Have you tested the ECT sensor itself? I have included a step by step test for the ECT in the diagrams down below. Please go through it and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, March 15th, 2019 AT 12:40 PM
Tiny
FARHAN2149
  • MEMBER
  • 32 POSTS
Hi SCWICKEDSTANG,

Went to repair shop try to find out why it’s running hot, but the mechanic said regardless of temperature gauge reading hot the engine bay is not hot. With 82 thermostat upper hose reading shoes 86dec and lower shower 78dec when the fan turn off. So it’s operating normal. After this what I have notice on highway running hot is when I punch on cluster twice gauge bounce up punch again bounce down to normal and and few second again gauge needle going to hot. The other things on cluster; fuel gauge, tachometer and speedometer when I punch near them they don’t bounce up or down. So now why only the temperature gauge bounce while punch?
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Monday, March 18th, 2019 AT 2:02 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

It sounds to me like the combination meter in your instrument might be going bad or you could have a loose wire or loose connector going the combination meter off of the BCAN. In the diagrams down below I have giving you all the information I could find on the temperature gauge for your vehicle. Please go through them and get back to us with you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Tuesday, March 19th, 2019 AT 4:05 AM
Tiny
FARHAN2149
  • MEMBER
  • 32 POSTS
Hi SCWICKEDSTANG,
Thanks for the reply.
Yes, it’s a bad cluster. I noticed myself when I cold start and didn’t blink my eyes from temperature gauge. What I noticed just suddenly in second gauge bounce to full hot side and cold side. So either it’s a sensor or a cluster itself is bad. So I thing I want ask, on top coolant outlet hose there are two sensor one with two wires if I remove it the radiator fan start at full speed and then one sensor with only one wire on it which I can’t remove? It’s stuck what is that one wire sensor for?
And sorry the last pictures diagram you sent me is not for my car. Mine is different for Gulf spec compare to USA Canada or Japan.
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Tuesday, March 19th, 2019 AT 8:42 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

The one with one wire is a sending unit going to the gauge in the dash. The one with two wires is a sensor going to the PCM. Let us know if we can help in any other way.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Thursday, March 21st, 2019 AT 8:50 AM

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