Car pulls on highway curves at a certain point of steering

I had used an 8lb sledge to help me with it. Got it back together and still pulled on a right curve but ill wait to see if it helped after the professional alignment.

It only sways a little when driving straight. I just called the shop I brought the car to for the alignment and they were unable to complete the alignment for these reasons: left ball joint is loose, left front wheel bearing is extremely loose, sway bar links in rear loose, sub frame is rusty and possibly shifting.

That's just going off of memory when I called them and I will have the complete report from them later this evening and list it if you want it. The visit cost me a little under 50 bucks but I guess I know what is at least contributing to the issue now. I suppose with the loose wheel bearing the cars weight is shifted off of it around right hand curved when the wheel itself is shifted out from more pressure. I can only guess at this point though. GAH gotta buy even more fricken parts now.

I dont suppose you would have another rock auto discount code I could use? My last one expired on the 13th. If not thats ok. Your help is always appreciated Louie.

I have a buddy who runs a metal salvage yard a few miles away, going there on saturday to inspect the subframe to see if I can just weld something up for it to at least be solid so the mechanics will stop saying is junk

I did not get a rock auto code louie, maybe it didnt paste into the response window.
But as for the car I plan on ordering the parts and just replacing them one at a time so I don't get too stressed again about potentially being left without a vehicle. Going to start with the wheel bearing and then the ball joint. After that I might just end up replacing the sway bar links, by the way, as for the sway bar links, the report from the shop said both sway bar links loose in the rear. Does that mean I should be ordering two of them?
I might end up replacing the front left caliper, it is making some really strange noises when I start out from a dead stop, possibly hanging up, unless theres an easy way to revive it? Only problem is when I did my brake pads a little bit ago one of the bolts would not loosen at all and so I just swiveled the caliper to install new pads.
This weekend I am having a friend look at the subframe for possible rust repair, and last but not least, a small nitpicky, issue, the reverse light relay that goes on the transmission.
Thanks again louie

The reason I suspect the caliper is because of the brake steer I mentioned before. I push on the brakes at speed going straight and the car will torque slightly to the right, meaning in my mind the left caliper is not grabbing fully.

And with the mechanics report saying the ball joint is loose, on the 93 sl2 that is not replaceable seperate from the control arm correct? As in it has to be replaced as one unit?

So my friend at the salvage yard said there is not enough material to efficiently weld up the subframe, the heat of the weld would burn through it and I would be worse than if I dont touch it. So the subframe is staying as is and hopefully does not rust out in the next year or so. A few parts are on the way from rock auto, still have to get the control arm assembly though. Ill update when I can. Thanks again louie

Ok this is annoying, I have still yet to find the time to go to my buddies place and have him help me replace the bearing and other parts, but now in the severe cold of minnesota my car does not always start. I turn the key all the lights come on, when I turn it to the starting position all the lights go off and it does nothing, like the battery is being disconnected. Any common areas to check for this issue? It is kinda weird because the first time it happened I kinda smacked the steering wheel out of frustration and then it engaged the starter.

The starter from my current perspective seems fine. It just seems like there is a short somewhere, typically it does it when I first try to start it in the morning. During the day 9 times out of 10 it starts right up. It just gets to be annoying because every time it does it my stereo settings are gone as well, as if the battery has been disconnected. I hope I dont have to replace the starter because it is particularly a pain in the butt on this car.

I will hopefully get a chance to check out the connection on the starter itself, last time I had it jacked up I remember noticing that the wire was loose on it. I'll just double check that it is tight and not loose at all. Just a side note, when I try to start it when this problem happens, after I smack the wheel again and the starter engages, it starts up as normal. So besides the short the starter in my opinion is still functioning.