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One cylinder misfiring is not going to shut it down, but instead give you a rough running vehicle because of the misfire. Since you changed the coil to a different cylinder, cleared the code, and cylinder 1 returned, the coil isn't the issue. It could be low fuel pressure, a bad connection at the cylinder 1 coil, a faulty fuel injector, low compression and so on. None of which should shut the engine down. However, there is one thing that comes to mind that will shut the engine down and require the vehicle to sit for a bit to cool. That component is the crankshaft position sensor.
When they start going bad, they can cause loss of spark. Interestingly, they may or may not set a code. Take a look through these links for info and to determine if the symptoms fit what you are experiencing. And yes, it can cause a single misfire.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement
With that in mind, you have a few ways of checking. First, using a live data scanner, see if there is an RPM signal when the vehicle stalls and won't restart. Or, when it stalls and won't restart, check to see if there is spark to the plugs.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system
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If you find there is no spark or no RPM signal, the sensor would be my first suspect.
If you determine the sensor is bad, here are the directions specific to your vehicle for replacement. Picture 1 correlates with the directions.
ENGINE SPEED (RPM) SENSOR, REPLACING
Engine speed (RPM) sensor, replacing
Removing the engine speed (RPM) sensor
picture 1
Remove the pipe between the front cover plate and the air cleaner (ACL).
Disconnect the hose between the air cleaner (ACL) and the throttle body (TB). Put the hose to one side.
Remove the throttle body (TB).
Clean the gasket face.
Expose the wiring.
Disconnect the connectors.
Remove the sensor.
Installing the engine speed (RPM) sensor
Connect the connector.
Install
- the sensor. Tighten to 10 Nm
- wiring
- the throttle body (TB) with a new gasket. Tighten to 10 Nm
- the hose between the throttle body (TB) and the air cleaner
- the pipe between the front cover plate and the air cleaner (ACL) housing.
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If you determine this isn't the issue, check to make sure fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specs. Here is a link that shows in general how to test pressure.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
Here are the manufacturer's specs for fuel pressure.
Fuel Pressure (Key On Engine On) .................... 375-395 kPa (54.3-57.2 psi)
Fuel Pressure (Key On) After 20 Minutes .................... 200 kPa (29 psi)
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To shut down the engine, I feel you are either losing spark to all cylinders or pressure is dropping too low.
Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.
Take care,
Joe
May 20, 2019 at 8:43 PM
