Car is using a lot of fuel and low engine power

Have you checked for any codes? can you do a stall test on the clutch? when you take off does the power take up with the clutch almost fully released or lower down near the floor? i am wondering if you have a clutch slip problem.

Hi, have not checked for codes, do not have that devices available.
The clutch takes lower to the floor, just noticed that when i apply the accelerator the cars rev go up but the speed takes long to climb. also, there is a tapping sound that goes faster when the accelerator is press.

clutch should be okay then. try and get a code read, some parts stores do a free read, make sure you copy down any codes set and post them here.

was on my way to go check for a code reader, but it is about 36KM away and the car is not performing too well for my liking to drive it.

Is there a misfire? can you check injection pulse and spark at each cylinder?

sparkplugs are working, tested it by taking off the sparkplug cap while the car is running and checking for a change in the cars idle. and did the screwdriver to fuel injector check to hear for clicking.
i should let you know that the head gasket was damaged and changed. before the gasket was changed everything was fine after it was changed it has developed this issues, could it be the timing is just a little out?

could well be a timing problem, well worth the the time to make sure that it is correct. do you have the specs at hand?

No i do not. I cannot find it for i20 gamma 1.4. I have tried working off of videos, as it shows on the Kia and i30. Lined up the exhaust gear with the intake gear, and then lined up the gear for the pistons on the engine block. using the small dot on each of the gears. The car was out of timing before i did this and sounded and idled better after the following the videos. I am waiting for a guy to fetch the car and take it to a buddy that has a diagnostic tool to check for codes. but i do not know when that will be. It will take seven days for the obd2 tool to come if i buy it as i have to get it online. But then i will have to go back to work and will have no time for the car.

Hi, MHPAUTOS,
i have three error codes
P1693, P1696 And P0016.

Device showed:
P1693 - Unknown.
P1696 - Unknown.
and P0016 - Crankshaft position/camshaft position correction bank 1 sensor A.

The car has a misfire, i have told the mechanic to come and correct the timing, but he does not have the specification for my car.

could you let me know what the other two error codes are please?

P1696 Immobilizer Key Mismatched, you may have a clone key, that is not a key that has been coded correctly.

P1693 HYUNDAI - Transmission Control Module MIL Request Circuit Malfunction
These may be history codes and not active, as if they were active the car would not start normally. Clear codes and make sure car starts on both keys, and re code to see if they have cleared.

P0016 HYUNDAI - Crankshaft Position-Camshaft Position Correction- Bank 1 Sensor 'A' 1.

Comment Possible causes Dirty Oil Low engine oil level Faulty Valve Timing Control (VTC) Valve Timing Control (VTC) harness is open or shorted circuit. Valve Timing Control (VTC) circuit poor electrical connector Incorrect timing Engine mechanical problems Damaged Engine Control Module (ECM).

My car i bought used, a few months after i bought it the key pin was damaged, so the key and the fob was separated from each other. I had it repaired by locksmith but that same day the ignition got stuck in the on position i could not turn the car on or off. Had to kick start it to drive it back home and pull a fuse out while the car was running to turn off the car then disconnect the battery. A guy took the ignition apart and cleaned it and it has been working since that time. Sometimes the immobilizer light flickers but i think it is because of the key cover i have as it was not doing it before i put the cover on. I just turn key from ignition on to off and back on and it works.

I am waiting for the mechanic to come and redo the timing chain. I think the bottom gear is not lined up with the two top gears. Thanks for all the help.

okay, looks as if we are heading in the right direction with this problem. please keep me informed as to how the mechanic gets on with the timing check.

the intake cam was off by 1 tick... car has better acceleration... there is a ticking sound, the ticking gets faster with acceleration. not sure if it was there or not. i know the oil pump has a ticking sound but it goes away as engine warms up.

may be a lash adjuster, have you changed the oil and filter recently? if not do this and use an engine flush as well this will help break up and remove carbon that may be affecting the lash adjusters.

It has new oil filter, new air filter, new oil, new coolant, new gaskets (intake, exhaust, cylinder head, spark plugs and cylinder head cover), new spark plugs....
these things were changed all on the same day (2weeks ago)

You may need someone to listen to the noise first hand, it is hard to tell, but i feel it is a noisy lash adjuster, these are basically the valve clearance adjuster, when they tick, they have lost oil pressure and the valve clearance is excessive. Fairly common problem, but as i said, hard to tell with out actually hearing the noise first hand.

Thanks... i will get a other car and see if it has the same sound.... if it is different i will need to have someone with Hyundai Knowledge to look at it... as i cant find any spec on this car.

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Hi, so i took my car to a different mechanic last weekend.. He found that the heat shield covering the exhaust output on the engine isnt tied down correctly and causing some random rattling especially when pulling away and gear changes. There is still ticking coming from the engine, he says the timing sounds right and it might be the lifters.

I have noticed 2 days ago that although the car sounds fine apart from the ticking and revs are fine... When i am driving and change into 3rd there is some hesitation...
Also when at idle 750 rpm the rev needle is constant, if increase the revs to 2k it stays constant... But when its at about 1300 rpm the needle fluctuates as if there is a misfire, it goes from 1300 drops to just above 1k and starts fluctuating... So when i am driving normally when i change to 3rd gear the car feels like it slows down and then slowly picks up acceleration...
If i drive my car hard with high rpm gear changes i dont feel the hesitation and sluggishness... But the ticking never goes away.

I have the obd2 tool in my car now but i think the misfire is too low for the ecu to throw an error code. Could the timing still be out by a little? Which is causing the ticking and misfire?

If you guys think it is the timing. i will have to get someone else to redo the timing and hope nothing got damage during the time ive been driving it and told it is fine.

To me it sounds like one of the camshaft actuators is going out. Do you still have the codes?

since clearing the codes and redoing the timing i haven't received any new codes.

Is the car running okay now or do you still have the issue?

you must be very careful with a lot of modern engines, they do not use and keys only friction washers and tapered shaft locking, if you back any of these off with out the special locking and alignment tools you can find your self in a world of pain, you may of dodged a bullet here, how is it preforming now?

On Saturday i took my car to someone else, we opened the valve case, and the intake cam didn't look right, i think it was a notch forward. So we redid the timing but we were not certain how the chain was put on the crank gear... So we tried for about 2 hours with multiple settings. Eventually the guy said it looks better... And we left it like that since it was getting dark.. I drove home the car didnt have the hesitation it normally had, the ticking noise is still there. Sunday i decided to add in some oil additive, i used less then the recommended amount (recommended is 500ml, i added about 80ml) and the ticking went away... It came back and added a bit more, so there is a total of 175ml.... I didnt want to use much as it thickens the oil. Today i started the car the ticking was still there.. As i drove and the car warmed up the ticking went away... I drove about 37km and then i could hear the ticking very softly... Not sure what i should do next. I dont want to add any additional additive in. Not sure if i might be a valve issue due to the wrong timing before.

Is there a chance you can take a quick video and upload it here to the site so we can hear what the engine is doing that was we can tell for sure whats going on.

here is the video sorry it took so long, dont have great internet to upload.

Hmm, I would make sure the spark plugs are tight because one can be loose. If all are tight then it sounds like you have a rod knock or a broken piston. You might want to look into a factory used engine installed should be about $1,800.00 if you want to keep the car.

Sorry, thanks for the video.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Hi Ken, i am expecting that it might be the valves that are bent from when the car was running with incorrect timing. i will get try to take out the spark plugs sometime today to check, hopefully will be able to see the piston from the spark plug hole. else i will ask someone to remove the cylinder head again, sometime after i am done with work sometime middle of next month.

not sure if i should get rid of the car or try to fix it. since all the parts for it is horribly expensive and i just got retrenched.

The quickest way to easily check for a bad valve is to do a wet and dry comp test, do the four dry readings and record the pressures, then add a small amount of engine oil, a few squirts from an oil can will do. This will seal the bottom end temporarily and when you do the wet compression test if the first reading was low and the wet test is still low, you have a combustion leak past a valve, try this test.

Hi
Just an update.
the car seems to be driving well over the last month has not given an issue, but i have traded in the car and got another car.

Well that is one way to eliminate the problem. I hope that your new car is trouble free.