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Extreme loss of power when going up hill

Tiny
JOY ARRUDA
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER
  • 1.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 89,000 MILES
I was driving on highway no problem. Going up hill all of sudden my car lost almost all power I had to get on shoulder with hazards. Really didn't think I would make it to top. By time I did I was going maybe 5 to 10 miles per hour, fast as car would go.
After that I drove home car did okay, although it seamed louder and wouldn't go over 60 bogged out.
Next day my husband drove it to check out he said it was just fine.
Next day I drove to work get on highway try to accelerate. My car sounded like it backfired and I am pretty sure I saw a puff of smoke in rear view mirror. It sputtered and shut off total loss of power. All my lights on council l flashed on and off a few times and that was it. It wouldn't start. It turned over. I tried to start it at least 6 times, nothing. I had it towed home (thank you AAA!) Got home car started but very sluggish, no juice.
That was yesterday. Any idea?
Oh!My fluids are all good.
Now, right before this happened I ran my car 5 miles below my gas light coming on. I filled up gas with Super and added 3/4 bottle of heat. I drove no problems though and when my car did that up hill I was at about 1/2 tank.
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Saturday, July 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

This could be a few different issues. Is the check engine light staying on when the engine is running? If it is, you need to scan the computer to identify diagnostic trouble codes. Here is a quick video showing how it is done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but most parts stores will check it for free or lend / rent you a scanner. So, if the light stays on, this needs done.

Next, you mentioned it sounded louder. That makes me question if there is an issue with the catalytic converter plugging. If it does, the exhaust from the engine is restricted and you will lose a ton of power. Here are a couple links for you to review. The first will discuss symptoms and the others how to's.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/catalytic-converter-replacement

______________________________

Now, since you ran it low on fuel before this started, the pump may have been damaged or the filter may have picked up a lot of dirt from the tank. You may want to check to see if fuel pressure is low.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

____________________________

Let me know if any of this seems to mirror what you have experienced or if you have other questions. If you have the computer scanned, also let me know the codes that are retrieved.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, July 20th, 2019 AT 10:41 PM
Tiny
JOY ARRUDA
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Okay, so we ran diagnostic it came back with code p0141.
We then replaced 02 sensor downstream. Checked spark plugs, they are firing. Replaced fuel pump, then replaced Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator. It still wont start, it turns over, It starts very briefly if we spray starter fluid.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Welcome back:

If it starts briefly with starting fluid, then it isn't getting fuel. I realize you replaced the fuel pump. However, have you confirmed fuel pressure?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the manufacturer's specs for pressure:

2003 Mitsubishi Truck Outlander FWD L4-2.4L SOHC
PRESSURE, VACUUM AND TEMPERATURE

ITEM .................... STANDARD VALUE
Fuel pressure kPa (psi)
Vacuum hose disconnected .................... 330 - 350 (47 - 50) at curb idle
Vacuum hose connected .................... Approximately 270 (38) at curb idle

______________________________

If the fuel pressure is within spec, then you need to check for an injector pulse.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
JOY ARRUDA
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I will have my husband test that when he gets home, if he hasn't yet.
However, this morning we swapped the fuel pump relays spots and my car started right up. Yeah! But as soon as you push gas it shuts off. Wont stay running.
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Tuesday, August 27th, 2019 AT 10:28 AM
Tiny
JOY ARRUDA
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Also it has no trouble codes now.
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Tuesday, August 27th, 2019 AT 10:31 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
It sounds like a bad relay or weak connection. Tell him to make sure the relay he switched has the same part number. Also, ask him to confirm the connection isn't corroded or damaged.

Here is a link that explains how to check a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Here are a few links you may find helpful when testing the relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Tuesday, August 27th, 2019 AT 7:49 PM

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