Shuts off while driving?

Hi,

When it stalls, does it start right back up or do you need to wait for a while before it does?

What I would suggest, if you haven't already, is to have the can bus scanned. CAN stands for controller area network. Basically, all computers/modules are tied together via a few wires. This type of scan will provide codes regardless of what module is storing it.

Here is a link that explains how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

As far as the radio, if it were a security issue (anti-theft/immobilizer) I feel it wouldn't run for a while and then stop.

Let me know if it restarts right away or if you have to wait. If you have already had the can bus scanned, let me know what codes were retrieved.

Take care,

Joe

It is unlikely that the radio would cause this issue on this vehicle.

The likely cause of this is a crank sensor but we need to clarify some things first.

Does the engine just cut off or does it surge and stumble before it stalls?

Next does it restart no issues? Or do you have to wait a little bit of time before it will restart?

I am attaching a lot of info on this issue which means we need to start running through this and see what we can turn up.

We need to start with checking for codes even if the check engine light is not on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Next here are a couple guides that will get us started on this issue assuming there are no codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please let us know about the info above and then take a look at these guides and let us know what you find. Thanks

Hello,

I am having the same issue with 2010 Voltswagen Routan SE 3.8L. Abs esp, traction etc all on. Randomly stalls around 160-190+ (from what I’ve gathered so far anyway).

Issue: stalls randomly and silently dies. Usually has to heat up a bit before it turns off usually around 170+ F I think. Has issues sometimes turning back on and doesn’t turn over at all. Rough transitions into drive and reverse etc when it stalls sometimes. It doesn’t do it unless it has stalled. Low voltage and battery light come on when this happens. Battery and alternator just replaced. Doesn’t stall if in park or neutral. 13 codes:

U1110 Mod$00 Confirmed, U0121 ECM Stored, U1110 ECM Stored MIL, U0173 SRS Active MIL, U0176 SRS Active MIL, C2200 ABS Active MIL, C2205 ABS Stored, C1027 ABS Stored, C2100 ABS Stored, C1246 ABS Stored, C1011 ABS Stored, C1032 ABS Stored, C1020 ABS Stored

It sounds like you have a bad PCM, here is how you can change it out in the images below, you can get a preprogrammed unit by searching Google or Ebay.

Here is the information that makes me think the PCM is bad:

U1110: This code indicates a loss of communication with the electronic control module (ECM).

U0121: This code points to a communication problem between the ECM and the anti-lock braking system (ABS) control module.

Check out the images (below). Please let us know how it goes