When it comes to crankshaft position sensors and camshaft position sensors, reading the diagnostic fault codes is the least accurate way to diagnose them. The Engine Computer needs some time to detect the missing signals, as in when a stalling engine is coasting to a stop. They often do not set fault codes just from cranking the engine, so it's good that you read these codes right away before erasing them.
By far the best way to diagnose them is with a scanner to view live data. I have a Chrysler DRB3 for all of my older vehicles. That lists each sensor with a "No" or "Present" during cranking. You're looking for one that doesn't switch to "Present" when you crank the engine. Aftermarket scanners will have some similar way to show if these sensors are working.
The next thing to watch out for is diagnostic fault codes never say to replace a part or that one is bad. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, or the unacceptable operating condition. When a sensor or other part is referenced in a fault code, it is actually the cause of that code about half of the time. We also have to look at wiring and connector terminal problems, and mechanical problems associated with that part.
The last issue has to do with the timing belt. I have to defer to my experience with the single-camshaft version of this engine. On those, if the timing belt jumps one tooth, the Engine Computer detects that, turns on the Check Engine light, and sets a diagnostic fault code for "cam / crank sync". At two teeth off, it shuts the engine down to protect the valves. If it gets to three teeth off, valves can be damaged.
Your model uses the dual camshaft version which is not listed as being an interference engine. That implies valves won't be damaged, but a jumped timing belt might still result in the engine being shut down.
Another test is to look for 12 volts feeding the injectors and ignition coil pack. Look for the wire that is the same color at each of them. That's usually a dark green / orange wire. I'll find the diagrams if that becomes necessary. This is best tested with a test light because digital voltmeters don't respond fast enough. You should find 12 volts on this wire for one second when you turn the ignition switch to "run". If you do, what is important is if it comes back during cranking. If it does not, one of those sensors is suspect.
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Wednesday, April 5th, 2023 AT 6:23 PM
