It will randomly cutoff while driving in traffic?

Tiny
ANONYMOUS
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 108,699 MILES
Car stalled without warning. Showed bad camshaft position sensor replaced still showing bad camshaft position sensor.

I have a 2005 non-turbo Touring that does the same thing (and has for the past 2 months.) When the car is cold, it starts slowly and when driving, it will accelerate to 2500rpm, buck, rumble, stall, then up-shift. I can't drive any faster than 60mph without stalling. Sometimes, it will randomly cutoff while driving in traffic (sometimes at highway speeds!); It might restart in neutral (if I'm fast enough), then it might not. When it's warmed up, if you turn it off, it won't restart for about 35-45 minutes.

I've already spent over $500 replacing various sensors and parts, but after much research, investigation and grease time, I figured out that the problem is due to a bad signal from the camshaft position sensor (from a faulty wire from that sensor to the PCM), causing the 2500-rpm rev limiter built into the PCM to activate (to save the engine from presumed damage).

So after speaking to 9 mechanics, 3 dealership service departments, looking at over a hundred website articles and replacing all this: battery, spark plugs/wires, catalytic converter, starter, camshaft sensor (twice), crankshaft sensor, manifold absolute pressure sensor (twice), intake air temperature sensor, knock sensor, coolant temperature sensor, transmission input speed sensor, transmission output speed sensor, the problem looks to be a shorted wire to an $30 sensor.
Monday, March 18th, 2013 AT 6:37 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor, main control relay or fuel pump is going out but the be sure lets go over these guides to help us fix it the problem. The should scan for codes as well you could have a MAF or MAP sensor going bad which will leave a code (a bad crankshaft sensor will not leave a trouble code FYI). When the engine stalls lift he hood and check to see if any of the relays are hot in the main fuse panel (PDC).

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back. Also the timing belt could have jumped a tooth.
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Friday, March 22nd, 2013 AT 12:08 PM
Tiny
MR.J.CORNISH
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Good call on that, I checked the timing belt and it was shot. Once I replaced it (took all day) the engine runs great again. Thank you ;)
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Friday, March 22nd, 2013 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
This forum is considerably different than most others. In the others anyone can come along, read it, and comment on it, and that can go on for weeks or months. Here, when one person posts an answer, the entire question and response go off the list. No one else will ever see it unless they are searching under that exact car model. That means there could be ten other experts who might have had a better or different answer but they won't even have the chance to comment. The intent is to have an on-going conversation between the visitor and just one expert.

My original answer does seem pretty abrupt but it has been my experience that the person will stay involved if they post a follow up, and they'll post a followup when they know someone read their question and took the time to think about it and reply.

I neglected to thank you for adding information that might help other people researching this problem. Normally when I whittle down the list of possibilities I'm more tactful when I explain why we can rule something out. Perhaps I can blame it on it's nine hours past my bedtime and I'm still trying to catch up on my replies.
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Friday, March 22nd, 2013 AT 1:51 PM
Tiny
MR.J.CORNISH
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Cool man. I understand. Thanks for explaination and the info. Keep on helping out those of us who really want help, and get some rest, too. ;)
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Friday, March 22nd, 2013 AT 3:53 PM

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