Car cranks but no start, replaced crank position sensor

Tiny
KIWASABI1
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 215,000 MILES
Hello everyone,

My vehicle listed above is the GS model. Started having low RPM's during idle and driving slow 2 weeks ago, 400-500 RPM's. It also started stalling while idling and while going slow. My fuel economy also went down about 50 miles on that gas tank. The car was constantly idling low, even while in Park, which was very strange. After a couple days of sitting, it would no longer start anymore, just crank and not catch. So we replaced the fuel pump yesterday, which didn't fix it. Replaced crank shaft position sensor today, which didn't fix it. I have also replaced throttle body position sensor, mass air flow sensor, manifold absolute pressure sensor, idle air control sensor/valve, and cleaned and checked that the cam shaft sensor was working with a multi-meter, and was also getting power. The engine is getting no fuel, the injectors are only getting 5.8V instead of 12V, and the ignition coil is getting no spark. All my research pointed towards the Crank Shaft Position sensor fixing this, especially since it was stalling a low speeds, and now has no spark or fuel injector pulse. The mechanic I've been working with the last 2 days wants to try replacing the Crank Shaft Angle Sensor/Trigger Plate/Crank Shaft Angle Plate, whatever it's called. This is really just a hunch more than anything. We have no OBD2 codes at the moment. We had a P0335 right after replacing the Crank Shaft Position sensor but that went away pretty quickly. My car does seem to throw codes temporarily when I put in new sensors it seems. One other thing I tried was using jumper cables to ground the engine block to the negative battery terminal as someone had suggested with similar issues, but that didn't get it started. Any other suggestions? Also, battery is fine, starter is fine, alternator is fine, no vacuum leaks, does not seem to be engine compression related. So I am totally stuck! Please help!
Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 8:24 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

When you crank the engine, does the tachometer show any RPM reading? It should come up a little. That will tell me if the sensor is working.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

As far as the voltages, make sure your battery is fully charged to 12.6 volts. Low voltage will cause this issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn on the key?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

I attached a wiring diagram of the fuel pump and the crank sensor.

Did anyone check for battery voltage to the crank sensor?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy
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Wednesday, April 1st, 2020 AT 9:20 AM
Tiny
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The car was revving up to 300 or so RPM's but not starting before switching crank sensor. Now it sits at 0 RPM's. We verified the new sensor is giving proper voltage and is receiving power. We tested the old sensor and its resistance was out of range. It's unnerving that there seems to be a new issue since installing the new sensor, especially since you have to remove the timing belt to get to it.

We can hear the fuel pump prime with key in the "on" position. It also is getting power.

I haven't tested the battery voltage. The battery is very new and in great shape but excessive attempts and fails to start the car without recharging it the past 2 weeks could have drained it low.

The cam shaft sensor is getting proper voltage which says the MFI relay is working. But since the fuel injectors are only getting 5.8 volts, someone said it may be bad wiring on the red wire between the 4 fuel injector red wires and the EGR valve.
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Wednesday, April 1st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM
Tiny
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Okay, again, does the tachometer show RPM while cranking?

What is the voltage to the crank sensor?

Roy
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Wednesday, April 1st, 2020 AT 10:33 AM
Tiny
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No, before changing the crank sensor the RPM's were at 300 to 400. After changing the sensor, tachometer is at 0 RPM's while cranking. The crank sensor was testing as receiving the proper voltage. The sensor itself was testing as sending the proper voltage as well. I don't remember the actual readings just that he said they looked okay. He tested the old sensors resistance and said it showed out of range.
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Wednesday, April 1st, 2020 AT 10:38 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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I need the readings. Something is wrong. If it was sending the proper signal, the tachometer would work.

He missed something in his testing. Ask him what the voltage was at the sensor. That is important. If it is not sending a signal, which is what it sounds like it is doing. I would try another sensor as the new one might be bad.

Roy
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Wednesday, April 1st, 2020 AT 10:42 AM
Tiny
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The low idle was caused by the TPS, and at one point I had forgotten to connect the IAC connector, which I believe is why it wasn't starting at the time.
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Thursday, May 21st, 2020 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
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Is everything working now?

Do you still have the issue?

Roy
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Friday, May 22nd, 2020 AT 3:59 AM
Tiny
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It's all working now yes, thanks. Just wanted to update my post with a conclusion, although I know it's not much help to others reading.
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Friday, May 22nd, 2020 AT 10:41 AM
Tiny
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Oh, I guess the specific cause of this no start (it was a bad few weeks), was the not so smart person I hired put the crankshaft position sensor in backwards. So that's why the RPM's were staying at 0 while starting. I took it to an actual shop and they replaced the sensor and put it in the right way this time, and the RPM's were working again properly. What a nightmare. Going to only hire ASE mechanics in the future. Thanks for your help.
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Friday, May 22nd, 2020 AT 10:44 AM
Tiny
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It is a great help to all that are reading.

Thank you for your input.

Roy
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Friday, May 22nd, 2020 AT 10:45 AM

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