Cannot remove the CV axle from the hub?

Tiny
CONLEYER123
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 JEEP LIBERTY
  • 3.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
I have to replace the front left “driver side” lower ball joint which (as far as I know) requires the removal of the axle from the hub/knuckle, but I can’t get the axle to come out even though the axle nut has been removed. I’ve tried different sizes of hammers, LOTS of penetrating oil, even got an 8-inch 3 jaw puller but couldn’t get it with that either (very possibly operator error as I’ve never used one before). Any guidance would be amazing.
Thursday, November 7th, 2024 AT 1:22 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
Can you upload an image of what you areas dealing with? Sometime heat (torch) is the only thing that will help break it loose. The puller should be attached in such a way that it pushes CV axle joint out from the bearing hub. If you upload an image of how you are using the puller that would help as well.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, November 8th, 2024 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
CONLEYER123
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The area circled in green is the specific place/part I’m struggling with. The axle nut was only on a couple threads in this photo, in case it did pop free. I had the tie rod, lower ball joint, and upper control arm nuts on a few threads just to help keep the knuckle steady when I took the picture as well.
I thought about heat, but vaguely remembered reading somewhere that it could ruin the wheel bearing if you torch the axle; so I wasn’t sure if that was a good idea quite yet. So when I tried that, I used a butane torch instead of propane to limit the heat.
I thought about attempting to get enough of a gap to press the lower ball out and press in the new one with the cv still connected. How bad of an idea would it be to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm and jacking the hub up and then prying the lower control arm down to widen the gap?
I plan to work on it again in the afternoon tomorrow and will get pictures that would be far more helpful than the one attached now
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, November 8th, 2024 AT 10:38 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
Yep, that is the correct application of the puller, the splines must be rusted, yes heat can ruin the bearing hub but it needs to come apart somehow and then deal with the problem once the you can evaluate the situation. You might want to apply pressure with the puller and then try to "shock" it with the hammer. Let me know.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 9th, 2024 AT 11:17 AM
Tiny
CONLEYER123
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Okay, I just wanted to give you an update about this. I ended up having to get a FWD hub puller that used the wheel studs and Lugnut's to hold it onto the wheel and a center bolt to push the axle out.
After finally getting it out I inspected the splines and wasn’t surprised at all that it wasn’t easy to get it out with as much corrosion and junk as there was. So, I cleaned the heck out of it and made sure the splines weren’t damaged, which they weren’t.
I was warned that using the puller could cause damage if the CV isn’t removed from the differential, so I did. When reinstalling it, it went right in with minimal effort; but now the wheel doesn’t seem to spin smoothly? It easily turns about half a spin then it gets really stiff for about half a spin before freeing up again.
Could it be installed incorrectly or something?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, November 10th, 2024 AT 3:16 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
Nice work! Did the bearing hub spin freely before installing the CV axle? When you spin the hub with the axle connected do you see the other side or driveshaft turn?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 11th, 2024 AT 8:50 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links