Cannot find correct passenger tie rod (inner and outer)

I found the listings on the Rock Auto web site, but be prepared;... I almost choked when I saw the prices. You can buy three or four of them for less than what I expected one to cost.

Your truck uses what's called the "Haltenberger" steering linkage design. Ford also used a version of it on many models. There are at least two versions of this system on the Dodge trucks, but in ten years, all through the '90s, as the suspension and alignment specialsit at a very nice family-owned Chrysler dealership, I never once ran into the lighter-duty parts.

Rock Auto lists these parts from many different suppliers, and some of those suppliers include Chrysler's original part numbers in their listings. Some also include dimensions to help you select the right part.

What kind of problem are you trying to solve? I rarely found a worn tie rod end, but they had a real big problem with steering wander. The first thing to look at is where the pitman shaft comes out the bottom of the steering gear box. Run the engine, then watch that shaft while a helper repeatedly turns the steering wheel back and forth about 1/8th of a turn. If the bushing is worn inside the housing, you'll see that shaft move sideways a little, bottom out, then start to rotate and move the steering linkage. When that play gets bad enough, the shaft will move far enough away from the seal to let power steering fluid leak out. A new seal is not the proper repair for that. The gear box must be replaced.

The more common problem was a worn track bar. That bolts to the right end of the axle housing through a rubber bushing, and to the left frame rail through a ball and socket. When wear develops in the ball and socket, you will never find it by tugging up and down on the bar. You need your helper again to rotate the steering wheel like before, then watch the bar by that ball and socket. You'll see the bar move up and down a little. That movement is allowing the axle to shift left and right a fraction of an inch, and since the steering linkage is a separate system that isn't moving, the relationship between them changes. Moving the axle housing, and therefore the wheels, to one side while holding the steering linkage steady, causes the wheels to turn a little, resulting in that miserable steering wander. Some years ago Napa had a "problem solver" track bar for this aplication, with a lifetime warranty. Those were a good investment.

Chrysler had a specification for the amount of up-and-down movement that was allowable in that ball and socket, but don't even bother trying to find it. I solved every customer complaint of steering wander by replacing that track bar, and on those I had checked with a dial indicator, they all had less play than what was allowed. I had to lie on the warranty form and say the play exceeded what was allowed, then it got handled under warranty.

On the newer models, they switched from a ball and socket on the driver's side to another bushing similar to what they used on the passenger side, then they didn't have any more problems.

The only thing that may be discontinued is the part being available through the dealership, but even that is not totally correct. Chrysler only makes about 20 percent of their parts. They buy the rest from outside suppliers, and those suppliers commonly sell the exact same parts to other retail outlets like Napa and AutoZone. A lot of off-brand parts are those same parts, just re-boxed with different company names.

Moog is one of the biggest manufacturers, and you can be sure they will be making these parts for a real long time. Chrysler will stop making them available to their dealerships because the only time they get them that way is for trucks still under warranty and Chrysler is paying the repair bill. After that, the dealer's parts departments get them from the same auto parts stores as you and I get them from.

The problem is there are often two or more systems, and sometimes they switch from one to the other in mid-model-years. Ford is really famous for that, so you have to know the vehicle's date of production to get the right parts. The nice thing with running to the parts store is you can match up a new part to your old one. Don't worry about the threaded end being a little longer or shorter. A quarter inch won't matter, but if it gets much more than that, I'd question if it's the right part for that application.

If there's no hole for a cotter pin in the tapered stud, it either comes with a lock nut, or they failed to drill it on the assembly line. Check a different part of the same number. If it uses a lock nut, once it was torqued to specs, I'd use a hammer and punch to crush a few threads right above the nut for extra insurance. The stud will be wedged tight enough in the tapered hole to hold it for removal of that nut in the future.

If you're going to mail order a tie rod end, they will list lengths and diameters to compare to your old part. When two different parts are listed for the same application, and you can't tell which one is right, go with the larger one. As I mentioned, there were listings for the "standard" drag link, and the "heavy duty" drag link. In ten years at the dealership as their only suspension and alignment specialist, I never once ran into a light duty steering system.