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How to bleed the brakes?

Tiny
HELPLW
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 DODGE RAM
  • 5.9L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 121,000 MILES
Have replaced front pads, afterward do not have any brakes have bled manually still no brakes, have replaced master cylinder, bench bled prior to install still no brakes. They go all the way to floor. They will build up and feel firm until engine is started then no brakes. Just can not get air out of lines. Help frustrated.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 6:27 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
This is not uncommon when there is a leak in a line or you have an issue with the rubber lines swelling.

However, before you made the first repair of the pads I assume you had no issues. So if that is the case, we need to make sure we are bleeding them correctly.

Here is a quick video that shows. Let's cover this and go from there.

https://youtu.be/ye64wlARgcs

Then can you confirm that when you open the bleeders you are still getting air? If so, clearly that is the issue and we need to just keep bleeding until that is gone. Maybe get a video of what comes out of the bleeder when you open it. Thanks
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
WDCASEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 DODGE RAM
  • 158,000 MILES
And I am getting nothing but air and the vacuum is not holding pressure. What do I do. The break pedal was going to the floor. So I have replaced the front calibers and the master cylinder. I also bought a vacuum pump for bleeding the lines.

The pump held pressure at first and I got some old looking fluid out but not much at all. Now the pump will not hold pressure and I am getting nothing but air. I see no signs of leaks anywhere in the lines.
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,859 POSTS
The air is coming in between the threads of the bleeder screws. Very few people use vacuum bleeders. I have the best luck simply letting the brakes gravity-bleed. Leave a small gap open on the reservoir cap so it doesn't build vacuum that prevents the fluid from flowing. When fluid drips from one bleeder, snug it and wait for the next one to flow. When they're all bled, irritate the brake pedal a few times by hand, open each bleeder once more for a few seconds, tighten them and you're done. Here is a video and guide below to help you bleed the brake system correctly.

https://youtu.be/w7gUsj2us0U

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

and

https://youtu.be/WDxvEQrMkBg

Please run down these guides and report back.

The calipers won't cause the brake pedal to sink to the floor. When it comes to replacing the master cylinder, there is a simple trick that eliminates the need to bleed at the wheels. The disadvantage to that is you don't remove the old moisture-laden brake fluid.
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DALLAS1010
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 DODGE RAM
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 285,000 MILES
I have fluid from the master cylinder to the combination valve but nothing from the rear brake side of the combination valve to anywhere else.
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Hi,

Do you have pressure at the valve (master cylinder side)? If you don't have much pressure, it sounds like the master cylinder is bad. You can have one portion of the master cylinder that is bad and the other, good.

Let me know. Also, I need to know if this has.
1) no ABS
2) rear ABS
3) four wheel ABS

Let me know.
Joe
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DALLAS1010
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Yes I have pressure on both sides of the valve for the front brakes, but only on one side of the valve for the back brakes and it's just rear wheel ABS.

Thanks Joe
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
If there is pressure to the valve and out for the front and not the rear, it sounds like the combination valve is stuck and preventing pressure to flow to the rear.

Have you tried using vacuum to bleed the rear? If you haven't, I would consider trying it, but chances are the valve is bad.

Let me know if you have other questions.
Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JGCF57
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1994 DODGE RAM
Brakes problem
1994 Dodge Ram V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

What is the proper way to bleed these brakes? I have been told a lot about pressure, vacuum and gravity bleeding; having the engine running (due to standard RWAL); clamping the metering rod in the combination valve; the 94 dodge tsb said open all bleeder valves and pressure bleed till fluid comes out all valves and then close them. I replaced the master cylinder twice, tried bleeding it like a normal car and get no air just fluid and although the pedal feels pretty good the brakes have no power to lock up the wheels on dry pavement. Thanks for any help.
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
First take off the master cylinder and have it bench bleed. So no air is in it, then attatch it and bleed in order

right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

Have someone pump up the brakes till hard then open bleeder, then close, then let them release the pedal or it will suck air back in. Then keep repeating this for each wheel untill no more air comes out with fluid, be sure fluid is full during whole process.
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JGCF57
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thanks for your response. You are suggesting a form of pressure bleeding. This is what I meant by ". Tried bleeding it like a normal car." I ran a quart of fluid through the system and get no air yet the brakes have no power. I bled the master cylinder, combination valve and the RWAL valve at the lines and get no air. Does the engine have to be running for anti-lock systems? Do I have to play with the metering valve? There must be something that I am missing. Thanks for any help.
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
You shouldnt have to have the vehicle running, take it in to a shop and have it bleed, maybe you need them to use a scantool on it.
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVEKEHRER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 DODGE RAM
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 172,000 MILES
After doing a complete brake job all 4 wheels replaced rotors calipers pads on front, wheel cylinders and shoes and springs on back has antilock brakes. No brake preasure at rear, nothing at bleeder valve both rear brakes and no preasure after proportional valve rear only. Any ideas
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
You will need a scan tool to open the ABS valve to allow the air to escape. Then follow this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JNDHUDSON
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Thanks for the post I had this problem and the scan tool fixed it.
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Saturday, February 27th, 2021 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)

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