Cam sensor pigtail

The signal wire and ground wire are both black. You'll need to use an ohm meter to see which is the ground wire so you don't mix them up. Put the ground wire in terminal "1".

If you don't know how to use an ohm meter, here's a link to an article that will get you started:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

This shows using an auto-ranging meter. That's an expensive feature you don't need. You can find a perfectly fine regular meter at Harbor Freight Tools for less than $7.00, or at Walmart or any hardware store. I can help you with setting the range if you need it.

You can also find the ground wire with a test light, but normally we put its ground clip on the battery's negative post or someplace on the body or engine. In this case you would put that clip on the battery's positive post, then the light will light up when you place the probe on the sensor's ground wire. This article shows how to use a test light, if you need it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

You can find these at the same places as you'd find the voltmeters, but be sure to get a cheap one with a regular incandescent light inside. There are some really expensive ones on the market today, but the old-style test lights have a really big advantage that makes them more accurate than digital voltmeters for some types of problems.

So I did as you said and I'm guessing it worked, the code isn't showing up anymore. I thought that was the reason why the car quit running as I was driving but it still wont start. I've done that, changed the cam sensor, the spark plugs, and the crankshaft sensor was also changed. No codes come up on obd2 anymore, so I don't know what could be the issue. The car turns over and wants to start but it just wont. What else should I look at?

On some car models diagnostic fault codes related to the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor do not set just from cranking the engine. They need more time for the missing signal to be detected, as in when a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. For that reason, do not assume the sensors are working just because there is no fault code set related to them.

The first thing is to check for spark. This article shows how to do that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Skip to about step 20, then you can use a screwdriver or piece of wire in place of the test light.

If you have spark, check for fuel pressure next. You'll need a fuel pressure gauge which you should be able to borrow from an auto parts store that rents or borrows tools. This article shows how to perform this test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

We're only interested in the first half of these steps. We just need to know if you have fuel pressure or no fuel pressure.

If you find there is no spark, the next step is to use a scanner to see what the Engine Computer is seeing and responding to. I use a Chrysler DRB3 scanner for my vehicles. That one lists these sensors with a "No" or "Present" to indicate when those signals are showing up. If one doesn't switch to "Present" when you start cranking the engine, that is the circuit that needs to be diagnosed. Aftermarket scanners will have a similar way of indicating the status of those signals.

Hello,

I noticed you said the crankshaft sensor was changed. The crankshaft sensor is located under the timing belt and the belt would've been removed for this job. You said now when you try to start the vehicle it tries but stumbles but won't start. It sounds like the engine is out of time 2-3 teeth or more on the belt this will cause it to stumble when starting. Recheck the timing I'm attaching a schematic of the timing marks below. Please let us know if this was the issue or if you need more info.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-timing-belt-works

Thank you
Joe T.