Low power and flickering check engine light

When he says it flickers does that mean it flashes or flickers like a flash light that has a low battery?

The most likely cause of this not wanting to go would be an engine issue like a misfire. Clearly we would need more info but no matter what I would expect a lower price due to this issue. Also, I would not buy it unless you did a compression check on it just to make sure this is not a severe engine issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Let me know what other questions you have. Thanks

He said it flashes and he thinks it’s a fuel injector.

Okay. That helps. Then there will be codes to go along with it. I would ask he pull the codes and if he thinks it is an injector we would want to make sure it gets replaced on that cylinder (assuming it is a misfire code).

If he wants to confirm this, swap that injector to another cylinder and see if the misfire moves. Let me know what you find but a flashing check engine is a sign of damage being done to the engine or exhaust from excessive fuel.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Is there any service info on removing everything and torque values it’s listed above and it is an Ltd. I have never messed with one of this and is there any diagrams of it?

I really need help on this one.

Sorry for the delay. Are you looking for information on the fuel injector replacement? If so I attached that. If something else let me know what that is. Thanks

If I remove the distributor will it lose time?

The engine will not come out of time and if you tape down the rotor so it doesn't move then you can put it back in where it came out. You just want to mark on the engine where the rotor is pointing. However, if it were me I would just put the engine to TDC for number 1 and then mark the position of the rotor on the distributor for when you pull it out you know where it is pointing for number 1.

Does that make sense?

Yes it does and if i go to check injectors can’t I use a injector tester and what would be the drop I need for all injectors?

Are you talking about the tester that turns on the injector and then you monitor the drop in pressure of the fuel system?

If so, there is no specification for this but as you pulse the injector, you should see the pressure drop around 5 PSI if you pulse it for a second or two. The faulty injectors that you will find is after testing all of them when one or multiples don't drop any pressure (they are not opening) or it drops considerably more then the others as this indicates it is hanging open.

Oh, okay. thank you.

You are welcome. Keep us posted on what you find. Thanks

Okay, I now hear engine knock. can’t I open the oil pan and change the rod bearings in there for now?

This could explain the low power as well. However, post a recording of the knock because this may not be a bearing noise. Does it get faster when you accelerate?

You can drop the oil pan and look at the bearings but if you have metal through the engine then you are going to need to go through the whole engine because that metal most likely damaged a lot of bearing and the only way to know is to rebuild it.

I just would not want to see you go through all that trouble just to put it back together and it still make noise.

I would at least start with dropping the pan and seeing how much oil and what the crank bearings look like.

Post some pictures of the bearings if you can. Thanks

That’s what I’m going to do. is there any torque specs and procedures for removing everything?

I attached the process for the oil pan. The instructions on these older vehicles are not very detailed but more of a list. Also the torque specs for the crank bearings.

Let me know what you find. Thanks

He told me he took it the beach and came back and it started knocking and I was iffy about still getting it.

I would look for signs of sludge in the top end as well. Clearly we need to see if there is metal but if there is sludge under the valve cover then I would not waste the time in just replacing bearings. It needs an overhaul at that point. You may get away with it for a short time but if that is the case it will wipe the new bearings as well.

If I clean everything under the valve cover and do a bearing job can I flush it out and make it last 6 months or am I pushing it?

It is a risk that I would not take because once the damage is done you have no idea how extensive it is.

That is not saying you will not get lucky and fix the only effected bearings and be just fine.

I would think you are pushing it but the question is to you, do you feel lucky?

Keep us posted on what you decide and how it turns out. I am curious and pulling for you because I think you are going to give it a shot.

I’m going to try and save it and I need one more thing. is there torque specs for the rod bearing caps?

Haha. Sounds great. Be sure to keep us posted on how it turns out.

Sorry, I thought I gave you that. I attached and circled the connecting rods and main bearings.

Thanks and I will know tomorrow.

I looked at it and it’s a different engine then what I thought.

Sorry. I am not following. Do you not have the 5.0L? Did I give you the wrong info? Just let me know if you need some other info and I can get that if needed. Thanks

It’s 5.0 EFI. he said it’s the Mustang version for the Crown Victoria.

Fox body I believe is what he said. it looked totally different then what the instructions say, I got confused. i thought someone had changed the motor out but he said there’s the regular Crown Victoria and the Police Fox Body Mustang style one. can you explain?? I need help on this one.

Okay. Does this vehicle have the Police Package? Meaning was it a former cop car? If so, it has a 5.0L engine but it was out of the Fox Body style Mustang which just had more horsepower then the standard Crown Vic and they put a different engine controller in it to aid in pursuits.

Your torque specs are going to be the exact same with or without a Police Package.

So everything is basically the same. okay, that makes it a little less confusing and it sounds great to me. he told me he was going to get it looked at Tuesday and let me know what's wrong. Since I can’t really afford to put to much in it and it doesn’t sound like a rod bearing problem. but the spark plugs are to covered to do a screw driver push test is there any other method to check them without taking the bottom out.

Are you asking is there another way to check bearings with out remove the pan and inspecting them? Other then removing the plugs and pushing on the tops of the pistons with a screw driver? While this test has shown some really bad bearings it is not reliable. Unfortunately the only way to know for sure is to listen to the noise and see if it is louder or faster when you raise the RPM. If it does then it is a bearing and you need to tear it apart to inspect it.

Can you get a recording of it?

We drove it today and it vibrated bad inside the car, but every time he hit the gas it went with no problems but he had to keep flooring it and once he let off the gas the vibrating stopped.

And the check engine light kept flickering but once he hit the gas it went off.

Sounds like the engine is about to throw a rod. Can you get a recording of the knocking noise?

Yes I can.

Great thanks. Sometimes hearing them is the best and only way to know for sure. We will wait to hear back.