Brembo brakes only engaging inside pistons

Hello my name is Dave.

My first question is does the pedal feel soft? If it gets firmer when you pump them then you most likely still have air in the lines and you will need to bleed the brakes again. I am also wondering how the brakes wore before you changed them, did they wear evenly? When you bled the brakes did you use a scan tool? You can not properly bleed ABS brakes without a scan tool so if you didn't use one chances are there is air in the system which could cause this issue since the inside caliper pistons get fluid first they would move first.

There are few other things to look at to get to the problem, one thing is to remove the wheels and see if the pads are evenly spaced from the rotor when at rest, if they are not I would have someone pump the brakes quickly and see if they both move and the space becomes even, if it doesn't and the brakes are properly bled then I would suspect sticking calipers but I am skeptical since from what I understand both front brakes are doing this.

If you could get back to us and let us know (1) If your pedal is soft and gets firmer when you pump the pedal (2) If you were able to use a scan tool to bleed the brakes (3) If you have an ABS or brake light on (4) Where the original pads worn evenly? (5) Did you bleed the brakes initially when you replaced the original pads or just after you noticed an issue? (6) Did you happen to use DOT 5 brake?

If you could get back to us and let us know we will be happy to help you track down the issue and help you resolve it. We look forward to hearing back from you and thank you for using 2CarPros!

Hello again.

With that extreme use in mind (I'm jealous) I would recommend a thorough flush of the system. When you do this I would go old school with the bleeding process as as a general rule an ABS system will bleed fine as long as the ignition is off, I have recovered a number of systems using this method even after using a scanner to auto bleed the system (actually just did one yesterday, even though all the other techs insisted there was another problem, brakes now work perfectly).

My process is to get a small hose, (I usually use a 3/16" washer hose) a drink bottle and a helper. First fill the master cylinder then starting at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder put the hose over the bleeder, then add a small amount of brake fluid into the bottle, just enough so you can cover the end of the hose, put the end of the hose into the bottle making sure the yip is fully submerged. Open the bleeder and have an assistant pump the brakes rapidly (with the key off) and you will see bubble come from the tip of the hose. Keeping the master cylinder filled keep doing this process until you have mostly clean fluid coming out of the hose.

Make sure you never let the master cylinder run out of fluid as this can introduce air into the ABS pump and then you will definitely need a scanner to thoroughly bleed the system.

Working your way closer to the master cylinder repeat this process for all wheels again being careful not to let the master cylinder run dry. If you have a way to do it it will speed up the process if you can empty the master cylinder (not pushing the pedal) and refilling it with fresh fluid, I have simply soaked it up with a rag but keep in mind that brake fluid is one of the most efficient paint removers known to man!

If you can acquire a scanner that is capable of ABS bleeding I would start there (after putting fresh fluid in the master) and then perform the bleeding process as I described.

Please keep us up to date on your progress and again thank you for using 2CarPros!