Front brakes were dragging and overheating?

It sounds like you have a push rod extended out to far from the booster. Did this happens after the brake job has done or before? Try to loosen the master cylinder mounting bolts three turns to see if the brakes release. Please let us know what happens and upload pictures or videos of the problem.

It sounds like the caliper slides are seized up, I would remove the caliper and service the slides.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/a-comprehensive-guide-to-fixing-automotive-brakes-locking-up

Please go over this guide and report back.

Can you crack one bleeder to see if they turn freely?

The caliper sides sounds like they are frozen. Here is a guide that shows how to service them. If that is not it then the calipers must be sticking mechanically which is rare but it happens.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-caliper-replacement

Please let us know what happens and upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken

Hi,

Were the rubber brake hoses to the caliper replaced?

Try this. Safely lift the front of the vehicle. Have a helper apply the brakes. Once released, is the wheel still locked? If it is, open the bleeder on the brake caliper and see if the wheel can then be turned. I attached a pic below of the bleeder I am referring to.

If the wheel is locked and releases when you open the bleeder, the rubber hoses are bad and need replaced. If the wheel remains locked, then you have a caliper issue.

Let me know what you find when you perform the test. At that point, I will know better what to do next.

Take care,
Joe

Interesting. If they released when you opened the bleeder, then we know the calipers aren't the issue. Go all the way back to the master cylinder and do the same thing to see if they release. If they do, the problem is between the pedal and MC.

If that is the case, I suspect that when you installed the new master cylinder, the push rod wasn't aligned properly into the rear of the master cylinder. If the brakes drag even slightly, they will heat up. When that happens, brake fluid expands and will cause them to get tighter and tighter until they lock.

I attached a pic of the rod I'm referring to. Take a look through these directions for MC replacement. See if you did what is explained. I circled the part I'm referring to in the second pic. I have a feeling this is what is wrong. However, if you try the last test I suggested, we will know if it is between the pedal and MC. I can't think of anywhere other it could be, but better to check.

__________________________

2003 Dodge or Ram Truck RAM 1500 Truck 2WD V8-5.7L VIN D
All Except Hydroboost
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Hydraulic System Brake Master Cylinder Service and Repair Procedures Master Cylinder Removal and Installation All Except Hydroboost
ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST
REMOVAL - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST

pic 1

1. Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector for the low fluid level.
3. Remove the mounting nuts from the master cylinder.
4. Remove the master cylinder.

NOTE: Using care remove the master cylinder directly forward in order not to dislodge the output rod from its seat inside the booster.

INSTALLATION - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST

NOTE: If master cylinder is replaced bleed cylinder before installation.

Pic 2

NOTE: Make sure the output rod of the brake booster is in position before mounting of the master cylinder "This position will enable the output rod to enter inside of the master cylinder plunger sleeve during installation". Proper position is obtained when the output rod is centered perpendicular to the master cylinder mounting hole.

NOTE: Before installing the master cylinder, pump the brake pedal several times with the engine off to remove vacuum from the booster.

1. Install the master cylinder on the booster mounting studs.
2. Install new mounting nuts and tighten to 25 Nm (221 in. Lbs.)
3. Install the brake lines and tighten to 19 Nm (170 in. Lbs.)
4. Reconnect the electrical connector for the low fluid level switch.
5. Fill and bleed the base brake system.

______________________________

Let me know.

Joe

Before you replace that caliper too, (they should always be replaced in pairs), crack the steel line nuts at the master cylinder to see if the brake releases. If it does not, open the left front bleeder screw. If it still doesn't release, the piston is sticking in the caliper. If it releases only at the bleeder screw, look for a metal anchor bracket in the middle of the rubber hose. It's very common for rust to build up inside the area that is crimped around the hose. That will constrict it and prevent fluid from returning to the master cylinder. Open that crimp up a little with a channel lock pliers.

There is a 32 page service bulletin on preventing brake pull when hot, and it only applies to trucks with diesel engines or the 3500s. Of particular importance, there were four different calipers available for each side on the front. That might not apply anymore to a 2003. That bulletin was from the 1990s.

Caradiodoc

Next time they lock up, park on a slight incline, shift to neutral, and crack open the steel lines at the master cylinder. If that lets them release, suspect contaminated brake fluid. If they do not release, open the bleeder screws. If that lets them release, suspect the rubber flex hoses are restricted.

A few things could cause it. The most common is the caliper pistons wear and stick. Also, it is very common for the slides on the caliper (from corrosion, dust, rust) no longer slid as easilly as they should causing the brakes to stick. I have also see (rare) that the rubber brake hoses connected to the caliper have deteriated inside and will allow fluid to enter the caliper to stop, but won't allow the fluid to return which causes the brakes to stick.

I would recommend removing the calipers and checking them.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Is the tire actually skidding? As far as your friend, he may be correct. However, it is odd that is unlocks in reverse. Therefore, I recommend checking the caliper to make sure it is tight, and the pads are properly positioned and in good condition.

It everything looks good, then check to see if the caliper piston is free moving (not stuck) and make sure the slides are not sticking. It that is all good, replace the rubber brake hose that goes to the caliper. I have seen many times where the hose deteriates inside. It allows pressure to go one way and not the other. As a result, the brake won't release.

Let me know what you find.
Joe