Running bad after sitting

Welcome to 2CarPros.

Honestly, I wouldn't think everything needs replaced. Also, the coolant shouldn't have leaked. Have you checked for leaks? Take a look through these links.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-leak-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

Also, when you mention the brakes don't feel right, I'm not sure exactly what you are experiencing. I can tell you that brake rotors will rust when sitting. As a result, when you start using them again, they can make a grinding noise and feel odd until the rust is basically cleaned off by the brake pads.clean the rust off. Once that happens, they should be fine.

As far as the transmission, can you describe what you are hearing? As far as the brake issue, describe what feels differently.

If the brakes feel safe, my first concern is the coolant. We need to locate the leak and get that fixed. Basically, we need to focus on one thing at a time. Again, I doubt the fluid needs changed, but at least make sure they are full.

Lets start with the coolant. Follow the aforementioned links and let me know what you find. Once we get that fixed and the vehicle can be driven without overheating, we will move on. However, if the brake feel unsafe, let me know. Also, if there is any way you could upload an audio of the noise you are hearing, please do so. It may be helpful.

Take care and let me know what you find. Also, feel free to ask questions if you have them.

Take care,
Joe

Welcome back:

You are very welcome. Let me know what you find, if you have other questions, or need help.

Take care and I will watch for your reply.

Joe

Welcome back:

If it hasn't been done, it won't hurt. However, what you described sounds more like a universal joint. On this vehicle, there is what is called a propeller shaft. The drive shaft attaches to it via a constant velocity joint (CV joint). That may be bad and you should check for play in it. Also, I will provide the directions for replacing the differential fluid. That way you can do it yourself and save money.

First, take a look through this link. It discusses universal joints and how to check them and how they work. Yours will be a different design, but the same principals apply

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-u-joints-work

If you find the joint is bad, here are the directions for replacement. The attached pictures correlate with these directions. Also, the next section will relate to servicing the rear differential.

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CV joint replacement

PROCEDURES
Replacing Constant Velocity Joint For Propeller Shaft
Remove propeller shaft.

pic 1

Lift out retainer.

Installation:
Replace retaining ring.

pic 2

Drive out knurled pin.

Installation:
Install shims (1).

pic 3

Press gaiter off constant velocity joint.

Installation:
Inject new grease into constant velocity joint from rubber gaiter and flange sides.

Insert sealing washer (1) in constant velocity joint.

pic 4

Detach constant velocity joint with special tool 26 1 070 or 261 110.

pic 5

Installation:
Drive on constant velocity joint with special tool 23 1 040 or 24 1 040 as far as it will go.

pic 6

Installation:
Shoulder (1) for sealing washer must point to gaiter.
Toothing must be free from grease.
Thread locking: apply Loctite 648.

Caution: Do not apply Loctite to the ball races. Clean toothing and apply a light coating of oil.
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If you want to service the differential, first look through these links to get a general idea as to how it's done. The specific directions will follow.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-differential-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/differential-gear-oil-fluid-check

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/differential-service

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CHANGING DIFFERENTIAL OIL
Changing Differential Oil

Note: Only change oil when differential is at normal operating temperature. Use only recommended differential oils, refer to BMW Operating Fluids MG33.

Catch and dispose of escaping differential oil.

Observe country-specific waste-disposal regulations.

Pic 7

Note: Pay attention to all vehicle variants.

Release drain plug (1).

Unfasten filler screw (2).
Tightening Torque, refer to Technical Data 33 11 3AZ.

Allow differential oil to escape.

Screw in drain plug (1) and tighten down.

Add differential oil until overflowing.

Allow differential oil to drain off.

Screw in filler plug (2) and tighten down.

pic 8

Installation:
Replace sealing ring (1).

Pic 9 shows types required.

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Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Joe

Welcome back:

Lets start with fuel pressure / regulator. Here is a link that shows in general how to test pressure and a regulator. Take a look through it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

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Checking fuel pump delivery pressure (M52, M52TU)

Turn off ignition.

pic 1

CAUTION!
The fuel in the fuel lines is under pressure (approx. 3 bar)!

Catch and dispose of escaping fuel.

pic 2

Prepare special tool kit 13 5 220 (consisting of 13 5 221 and 13 5 222).
Connect special tool kit 13 5 220 to pressure sensor of DIS Tester.

pic 3

Remove dust cap (1) from measuring valve on fuel rail.

pic 4

Unscrew check valve (1) on special tool so that valve remains closed in fuel rail.
Attach special tool kit 13 5 220 to fuel rail and tighten down firmly so that sealing ring in special tool is sealed.

pic 5

Start engine.
Screw in check valve (1) on special tool until a pressure reading is displayed at DIS Tester.

CAUTION!
Do not under any circumstances screw in the check valve up to the mechanical stop. This could damage the measuring valve in the fuel rail.

pic 6

Measuring fuel pressure:
- Select measuring option.
- Multimeter function appears.
- Select pressure test.
- Read off pressure.

Test pressure,
refer to Technical Data.
Injectors And Lines, Fuel Pressure Regulator M52
image

Switch off engine.

pic 7

Checking fuel pump:
E39:
Detach fuel pump relay (2).

pic 8

E46:
Remove fuel pump relay,

pic 9

E38:
Remove fuel pump relay,

pic 10

Connect up special tool 61 3 050 to terminal 87b and terminal 30.
Operate button for approx. 10 sec and read off delivery pressure at DIS Tester.

pic 11

NOTE:
Removing special tool kit 13 5 220:
- Switch off engine.
- Screw out check valve again fully.
- Remove special tool kit 13 5 220 from pressure regulator housing.
- Catch and dispose of escaping fuel.

Interrogate fault memory of DME control unit. Check stored fault messages. Rectify faults. Now clear the fault memory.

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Let me know if this helps or if you have questions.

Take care,
Joe