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Blower motor stuck on, while car is off

Tiny
LIZARDKINGED
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 OLDSMOBILE 98
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 122 MILES
I'm positive this is a bad relay as it wont turn off when the car is off. Trouble is that the terminal is not under hood where it is supposed to be. I'm concerned it's non existent but unsure of how it's even possible.

here is confusion between relay 1 and relay 3. All diagrams say that this relay should be in position 3 (which I don't have). But it also states it might be the A/C condenser fan. Which is located in position 10 in the Oldsmobile.

I have heat, I have a blower, blower wont turn off. I'm just stuck here. Thanks
Just started Sunday morning.

I will, but I would prefer to not chase all these down as it's 10 degrees outside and I cant keep dis/reconnecting the negative terminal to drive.

Also, I just pulled the A/C Maxi for the time being and it cut the blower fan out. Should I just get the A/C compressor fan relay and swap it out?
Matthew.
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Monday, January 26th, 2015 AT 5:40 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
It should be a bad blower motor resistor module unplug the power wire to the blower motor. The wire is a foot or so long. Follow it to the module. It's bolted in the top of the A/C case with 3 7mm screws. It's mounted in the a/c case so it stays cool. It has 2 wire connectors going to it 1 goes from the blower motor to the resister and the other 1 comes from the harness. Replace it.
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Monday, January 26th, 2015 AT 6:41 AM
Tiny
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Followed the wires, the 4 come out of the cable housing, and all four lead to a stand-alone mount with a few bolts on it, a Molex clip on one, and what looks like could be a relay stuffed into the mount.

Do I have a Bingo in here? LOL

Also do you know where the CCR Relay under the front drivers seat carpet is? Is that a PITA? Should I just get it over with and loosen the front and pull the back bolts and tilt it? Suggestions appreciated.

I've found the unit, there are two types offered at my stores I shop at. Just the resister for between 20-40 dollars, and then the whole entire unit. I'd prefer to buy just the unit which looks like metal coils and install it. I assume that I wont have to replace the whole resistor block, but just the metal coils?
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Monday, January 26th, 2015 AT 6:52 AM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
You need the one that is black plastic where it mounts and it has a square metal piece with fins on it that goes down inside the case. If the speeds all work you don't need the coil part.
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Monday, January 26th, 2015 AT 7:36 AM
Tiny
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  • 5 POSTS
Okay cool. Thanks so much. It's on at a pretty high rate so I think I'll just pull the fuse when I'm not driving it and put it in when the car warms up until the unit "dies" or until I get a moment to try to clean it up and see if I can get a few more (6) years out of it.
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Monday, January 26th, 2015 AT 7:56 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
You need to replace blower motor resistor module now. Because if you wait you will have to replace the blower motor and the module motor around $50.00 module $90.00.
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Tuesday, January 27th, 2015 AT 11:49 AM
Tiny
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I can probably open it up and clean the unit up and see if it works, no harm no foul, still in the same position till the new one arrives. Just busy this week, probably wait till next week, or the week after. Paper delivery vehicle.

Until then, It wont hurt to pull the AC maxi when I'm not using the heat or when I'm not driving. I drive 50-70mi per day, bike the rest. Engine's rebuilt, not running dex, everything's fine now.

I'm not claiming I will run it that way for 6 more years. I'll probably pop my first Maxi and pull the unit out and clean it up and give it a shot until the new one arrives from whatever warehouse.

Also, I did ask if I only need the 30-40 dollar resistor module, or do I need the whole 80-170 dollar unit.

Hey lucky me. It has kicked back on so I'm assuming for now its just some dirty terminals or internals, So I'm just going to open that sucker up this weekend and clean it up with some electronics cleaner.
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Tuesday, January 27th, 2015 AT 1:21 PM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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This is one of two things. First, you have a shorted wire causing the fan to remain on. Second, the HVAC programmer has failed causing the blower motor to remain on. I attached detail on this system but basically the programmer controls this motor and if it is shorted it will keep the blower on all the time.

The fact that you are pulling the AC relay out just shows that the programmer is most likely the issue because you are removing power from it. If the wiring was shorted then it would most likely remain on due to it still getting power from the short.

If it were me, I would simply measure voltage coming out of the programmer when the engine is off and the fan is still on and see where the power is coming from. Then check that wire for a short just to confirm it is okay and then replace the programmer.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring
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Monday, March 30th, 2020 AT 6:59 PM

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