Battery warning light

Dear Kenny K,

Thanks for the detailed response!
The continuity test showed continuity between ECM and Alternator harness connector and there was no short to power and short to ground
So, I think the fusible links should be, okay? Is that correct?
I will check the current sensor as you suggest and will report back the findings.
Thanks again, I appreciate your help. Have a nice evening!

Question: HPCM = Hybrid Power Control module but my car is gas powered so where would I see HPCM for Current sensor and also, I checked fuse/relays and cannot see terminal 69 and 70? Could you please clarify. Thanks.

Sorry and thanks, my mistake. Maybe I thought I had written that the car is 2017 Nissan Rogue Sport (2 L gas engine, AWD), as I also cut and pasted what I had written in Nissan forum which provided till todate no help. (As FYI, Nissan Tech info site needs subscription for tech bulletins which I do not have. So I go by general and other web info. The manuals of Nissan do not even give image of fuse box, so I removed each fuse box covers and taken photos for future reference.)
Yes, your explanation of continuity does not equal low resistance makes sense. I will check and report here.

Here is the latest update:

1. Battery V = 12.87.
2. Battery V with car running = 14.23.
3. Battery V with car running, lights on, A/C on, heat on = 14.2.
4. Resistance between +ve Terminal and Alt bolt covered by rubber boot feeding wires to +ve Terminal fuse links = 0.01 or 0.02 ohms.
5. Same wire shows continuity of 1.

Based on these, I assume that Alternator fusible links, and alternator is okay. What I do not know is AC current leak for the alternator.
Since I do not have a hybrid model I do not know where to find Terminal 69 and 70 to test current sensor. Or please inform me if the following is correct to measure current sensor?
With engine off, remove negative terminal, connect jumper cable to unpainted bracket as ground and other end on negative battery post. Now check voltage between negative terminal battery post and terminal connector removed where harness is connected.
Have a nice, relaxed Sunday evening!

Thanks for your prompt response. one question to verify,
you mean these terminals 1 through 4 of current sensor? Where would I find it? Isn't it at the negative terminal on battery?
As initially I said in the post, I think it could be the current sensor? or I think a malfunction/bad ECM?

Is this the one Main Current Battery Sensor - Nissan 294G0-C990C at negative terminal which has wire harness plugged in? Earlier I had unplugged to see if the pins were clean or dirty, and they were clean but did not measure resistance, as I saw them clean.
Should it be tested for resistance by removing from negative terminal of the battery?

Also, as FYI, I have read this article during troubleshooting
https://www.samarins.com/glossary/battery-sensor.html

I still am hoping that if I drive around closer to 100 miles or so the ECM may relearn that i have a new battery. I have driven small distances around hometown for typical grocery runs etc. (As in NE we have snow and chilly temperatures.) At first, I thought maybe it is QashQai rebranded which was launched in EU and hence maybe I have to register/establish battery in system using Nissan Consult system. However, it is not to be registered, so I think Computer ECM has to relearn that there is a new battery and take away the warning which appeared when OEM battery was about 5 years old and CCA were falling below specs and ambient temperature was.

As additional info the attached battery test at neighborhood AAP store using Midtronics CPX900. The Tech associate entered rating of 550 CCA vs 650 CCA (does this impact test result? I don't know as it is just the baseline value. True?). Earlier on old OEM battery I had seen ripple V of 21-23 mV and here with new AGM battery ripple voltage is 11 mV. (So no/negligible AC current leakage?)

Please see attached image of negative terminal. Because of 4 wires, I think there are 4 pins, I will verify soon but in order to test do I remove the terminal by disconnecting/loosening the bolt on negative post and then check resistance between 1 and 4 and 2 and 3?

Resistance measurement at negative terminal connector pins, without disconnecting from battery, just removing 4 wire harness plugs. I tried to match wire colors from harness plug order to pins but besides pink, light blue, light green, the white didn’t appear maybe it is beige.
Assumption of Pin order and wire color
(a) From front of Car assuming the order of 4 pins (wire color, see photos) as:
1 (pink), 4 (light green), 2 (white/beige), 3 (light blue)
range 200K ohms selected
Resistance between 1 and 4 = 1
Resistance between 2 and 3 = 94.2

(b) From front of Car assuming order of 4 pins as:
1 (pink), 2 (white/beige), 3 (light blue), 4 (light green)
range 200K ohms selected
Resistance between 1 and 4 = 1
Resistance between 2 and 3 = 4.9 or 5.0

With lower range of 200 ohms on multimeter, all measurements were showing only 1, not changing at all for both pins order (a) and (b) above
When probes of multimeter were touched together it was 1.7

Note: resistance measurement of pins due to on terminal and as pins are sitting inside was little difficult with point probes of multimeter. I tried to put coffee stirrer plastic straw on tip to make error free but the bare probes worked better.

Therefore,
I am not sure if I have measured it correctly. Please inform me and I will check again.
I tried to remove the negative cable but the nut was tight and due to low ambient temp didn't use force, so the plastic part does not break.
Could it be better to measure resistance by taking terminal off the post?
Thanks for your continued help, I appreciate it.

Thanks, and just clarifying, I had checked fuses marked with red lines (in fuse list photo) where (BAT) is written in bottom row (towards floor of car) with shining flashlight through mini fuse for unbroken wire inside.
Question 1.
Is the fuse circled in blue which says 5A meter (IGN) should be checked? I will check this in the morning and inform you of the result.
Question 2:
I think in fuses photo the topmost row are spare fuses, correct?

I confirm the fuse 5A meter (IGN) is intact.
Just a question, I don't mind checking, but if IGN=ignition fuse was out, how come my car was starting and I was driving. This is why I had only checked BAT=Battery fuses as mentioned above.
Just to rule out other possibilities, I want to remove bolt of negative terminal on current sensor assembly (Nissan 294G0C990C) and reassemble by again testing the 4 pins resistance, this time taken off the negative post of battery. What are your thoughts? Please inform me along with next steps. Thanks for your time and help.

Thanks, please see attached image of self-diagnosis result and OBD codes, it points to an issue of ECM I think with U1040 DTC. A question, is it advisable to reset ECM? By touching both terminals (after removing from respective posts) to bleed Capacitor? I don't know if the current sensor is bad then it will again show up as battery warning light, but if it is retaining somehow memory of old OEM battery current state then by this time or in these many drive cycles it should have been re-learnt or re-written!
With due respect to professionals, Dealer wanted to replace Alternator first and then maybe current sensor and then maybe ECM. This is trial and error, in older cars without ECU/ECM, the battery icon meant charging or alternator issue but with ECU/ECM it could be corrupt memory so like laptop/pc a reboot may be necessary. Of course, this is my personal opinion based on logic.

Kenny thanks for all your efforts! As you can see my first post in #9 I had suspected and asked the question of current sensor. But there were no OBD codes. Shouldn't there be P0517 DTC code? On Self-diagnosis for BCM there is no DTC
On self-diagnosis of ECM, I do not see Battery state of charge DTC (from researching various code #s with my limited understanding or ignorance),
My logic wants to investigate if a reset or capacitive discharge yields which result. Will this harm the situation is my question?
I can even disconnect both terminals and not connect back to battery for about 24 h (that is remove battery out of system for 24 h), will this erase Key Fob codes for normal operation? Also, I have OEM remote start on key FOB will that work?
Or what would be erased out which is needed for normal driving of car?
I understand ECM will have to relearn some engine parameters but that is ok, I have patience. However, I do not grasp or understand the drawbacks of such reset or capacitive discharge. Without any strings attached if you could give your insight or point me in right direction I am happy to educate myself.
I just made a grocery and hardware store short trip of about 10 miles and other than battery icon on dash everything including heat, turn signals etc ran smooth. This thing is really perplexing for me.
I will read up on how current sensor goes bad perhaps with high current and then is there no surge/spike protection? Really confusing! BTW is this the correct part # Nissan 294G0C990C for the identified issue? Please inform when you can. Thanks.