Battery-Starter-F Generator-Ignition Switch-BCM Module- Fuses and Relays Correlation

Hi Joetechpro,

Yes, all the components are functional. I noticed the b terminal on the solenoid is kind of loose (it has 2 wires attached to it: the battery positive and the wire going to the voltage regulator-alternator (what I asked about) which is the only path the alternator has to the battery in the GTP g6 2006 3.9 4-door model). It is as if everything is fine but the starter solenoid b terminal stud is partly broken inside the solenoid. Possible. Weird? When I test the voltage on it, I get 12.7 but the battery cable is sitting on it and it does not tell me anything about its condition inside the solenoid. I am also getting 12.7 at the trigger terminal which is a switch-connector purple line that goes up to the 87 pin on the stater relay). I hear a click coming from the starter solenoid when my sister attempts to start the car. What I have not been able to do is jump the starter- this g6 3.9 starter has its s trigger terminal housed inside a switch-connector, not to mention I do see how people jump the b solenoid terminal (a 10 gauge wire with several hundred amps) to the s terminal (almost 18 or 20 gauge wire that can't handle the amperage). I see people doing dangerous stuff with solenoid-starter. I am not wanting to do that. But maybe there is a safe way to test the connection between the solenoid b and the solenoid s (and then there is the m that is very large and exposed connecting the solenoid to the starter itself).

JACOBANDNICKOLAS,

Definitely, "something isn't right." When I replaced the junction block, I replaced the battery cable. As I was turning the nut on the b terminal, the wrench was moving because the stud the nut is threaded onto was not solid (as if it was about to break but without doing so). I cannot tell if it is loose inside the solenoid or outside of it-but the nut and the 2 wires of the battery and alternator are solid on it(i get 12.7 v on this junction and 12.7 on the purple trigger switch of the solenoid). Testing the terminals is becoming useless because the test is not telling me what the condition of the terminal inside the solenoid is like. It is as if I am testing the battery cable and its connection to the stud of the solenoid solely.

As far as what was happening: after I replaced the junction block, I charged up the battery to 13.4 volts using a home outlet with a car battery trickle charger. The car started. I took it for a road test (6 miles) half way through the test, the IPC illuminated 4 symbols (battery, abs and traction control and tire pressure). I used my home compressor and pumped the left tire- it was at 25 psi). I checked the battery voltage and it tested at 12.77. Then I put the key in the ignition, I could not restart the car. Lights are functional and bright. Starter click. Voltage at s trigger is 12.7. Voltage at b terminal is 12.7. Voltage drop at battery terminals when attempting to start car is less than 0.2 v. Junction block and relays/fuses are all functional. My Innova scanner shows nothing at this point. It did give me an f - generator code when my sister came home last week telling me the instrument panel lights are all "acting crazy" and flickering and her sermon on the radio was cutting off (i told her forget the radio, it is always a source of trouble) all lights were -and still- bright. I turned off the car and tested everything. The junction block was in a bad shape with too many loose and blown fuses. I replaced it. There was 12.55 volts at the alternator terminal bolt. My scanner shows no stored codes none whatsoever.). I could be wrong but there could be a problem between the battery and the generator through the b terminal and I wanted to find out if f generator is telling the PCM to not start the car or some other short in this path. I wanted to ask before I took the alternator and the starter and their wires and replaced them. If that does not do it, then the BCM/ECM/PCM or something else? I am getting my skills up to par for the worst.

Hello JOETECHPRO,

Do you think if the B post of the solenoid is broken (or somewhat compromised) inside the solenoid, the alternator ( F generator) would be affected and the PCM would be alerted? What could happen? What test result would I get if the problem isn't bad solenoid, starter, battery or alternator but just a bad internal segment of the B post? Would the trigger switch have voltage(because I got voltage there)? How would you (safely) jump the starter in this situation (especially when the trigger switch of the solenoid is entirely housed inside a connector-switch part (unlike these starters where all three terminals are exposed and easy to reach)? When all said and done, I will have to replace the starter if the b post is compromised. And finally, what do you mean when you say "be careful when installing the new starter.") I will have the battery disconnected. Is there anything I should be aware of besides the normal installation procedure mentioned? Do I have to worry about the starter-flex plate gears inter-meshing? Or do the bolts of the starter to the bell housing ensure the gears are engaged correctly?