Hi Taylon. I'm following along to learn the solution. To help Strailer help you, please be specific when you list your measurements. In this case, there needs to be 12 volts in three places. One is the large, bolted-on, black / orange wire Strailer mentioned. If that's missing, the best suspect is a burned fuse link wire. That's a short section spliced into the fatter black / orange wire. Tug gently on it to test it. If it acts like a wire, it's okay. If it's burned open, it will act like a rubber band.
You must also have 12 volts all the time on the yellow wire in the three-wire connector. No need to unplug that connector to make this test. Just touch the probe of your meter or test light on the back of the terminal where the wire goes into the connector body. If that's missing, check the 15-amp fuse.
The green / red wire is a little confusing. You'll need to test this one at first with a voltmeter, not a test light. With the ignition switch on, engine off, you should find close to 2 volts. The rest of the 12 volts is dropped across the "Battery" light on the dash, and that light will be lit up. This is the "turn-on" circuit that tells the built-in voltage regulator to start running the generator. Once it begins generating output current, a sample comes out on the white wire, then the regulator puts 12 volts out onto the green / red wire to turn the dash light off, so that's the third place to find 12 volts.
This is normally a pretty easy system to diagnose, so I'll go sit in the corner and wait to learn what happened. Holler if you guys need my wondrous wisdom.
Aug 26, 2026 at 3:21 PM
