Battery not charging

The voltage on the cells for the high voltage battery are going to vary depending on the state of charge when you are checking it, so we normally don't worry about the voltage of the battery but instead we want to run through this testing.

I am attaching it below but here is a guide that will help with using a meter, but I don't think you need it, but others may:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Below is the testing that we need to run through for this primary code of P0A80.

More than likely, you will need to replace the battery pack, but you can try and slow charge it and you may be able to recover it.

Just Google how to restore a hybrid battery and there are all sorts of videos showing how to do it. Usually, you can get back to 80% state of charge or more which will not only get the vehicle started but will get you more life out of the battery before you have to replace it.

Let us know what you find. Thanks

You are welcome as always. Thanks for continuing to come back to us and let us know how this turns out. Thanks

So, this is another way to tell that the voltage block is shorted if it is ranging that much.

The testing above wants you to monitor the neighboring block and compare them. If they are more then.3 volts different then there is an issue.

So, it is clear that you have a shorted cell in the battery pack which is causing this issue, so the instructions tell you to replace it based on this info.

However, I would suggest looking into a slow charger for attempting to repair these because usually you can get more life out of them.

Okay. There are thirty total modules. Each module has 8 1.2-volt batteries. Each voltage block has two modules in it making 15 voltage blocks.

This means each voltage block has 16 1.2-volt batteries in it for a total voltage of 19.2 volts.

If each one you checked was about 10 volts, then the entire battery is drained.

So again, it looks like the battery is drained.

I am attaching the info below that will help with this and hopefully answer these questions for you.

No disturbance as this is what we are here for. So, if you have about 9.5 volts on each of these individual modules then when combined, that would be about right for what you should have.

So, thanks for clarifying that.

This means if the battery is not drained then we have an issue with the control module thinking that it is. This means if you follow that testing through and the battery is actually okay, then the battery smart unit is the issue and requires replacement.

The 12-volt battery under the hood is used to start the engine like a conventional car but it is controlled by the same controller that controls the high voltage side.

So, this code is considered secondary to the other code that we were looking at.

However, based on the testing that you have no other gas engine codes that would cause a no start then it is telling you to replace this controller.

What is the history to this vehicle? Was it in an accident or anything out of the ordinary?

Was it just sitting, or did it just come in with these codes?

Just seems like we are missing that bit of information to help determine which direction to go. However, if it were me, I would address the codes for the hybrid battery first. That means it looks like the smart unit needs to be replaced. Then address any other codes that remain.

Clearly, I could be missing something here and you may have more than one issue but it is just odd that all these would set at the same time, so I suspect there is more to this.

Thanks

Just to make sure, the vehicle is in good condition now?

Oh. Great. Thanks for the update and you continuing to return to us. We really appreciate it. Merry Christmas!