No starter operation?

KLHUDOCK64

MEMBER
2004 JEEP LIBERTY
3.7L
6 CYL
4WD
AUTOMATIC
152,000 MILES

So I had just made a 250 mile trip. Everything was fine but I noticed once in awhile I have to give it gas when I start it to keep it running. The temperature got down to 2 and 3 degrees the night before last. I went out to start my vehicle listed above Limited and it just clicked fast. I used my portable jump starter and it drained it trying to start it. I charged my portable jump starter again and tried to start it again it took all the charge out of my jump pack but won't start. I noticed white hardened pieces near negative terminal and a red like substance on the positive terminal.I had just purchased a battery for a different vehicle so I took it down to swap it out but the negative terminal nut is stripped. I have purchased used cars before where people swap out the newer battery and put an older one in so I'm thinking this is the case. So 2 degree weather overnight, a fast clicking when I tried to start it and my portable jump starter will not start the vehicle and corrosion and discharge near battery terminals. Are these all symptoms of a bad cell or a drained out battery? If I can can get the stripped nut off the negative terminal I could swap batteries. This has not been my year for vehicles.

9 Replies

STEVE W.

MECHANIC
13,577 POSTS

It sounds like a perfect mix. A bad battery that likely has a bad cell, corroded battery terminals that are not letting the battery charge properly. The fast clicking says the battery is at least very weak, however if it was that cold and the battery was already discharged it is likely that it also froze and shorted it internally, that is why the pack drained fast without starting it. If it still has the OE negative cable with the end like the one in the first picture you can replace that connector. Take a hacksaw or similar, no power tools that can create a spark though, you don't want to chance an exploding battery. Cut the terminal off at the line, then drill a hole to match the size of the bolt in a lead free terminal like the second picture. Bolt the terminal to the cable and install it. Clean up the positive terminal and after you install them both give them a coating of dielectric grease.
Now once you get it started I would run a charging system test to be sure the alternator is still okay.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

The reason for the load test is the way you said you needed to keep giving it more gas to stay running at times, low battery voltage can do a lot of things so it's possible the alternator is starting to fail.

Images (Click to make bigger)

SPONSORED LINKS

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 1:04 AM

KLHUDOCK64

MEMBER
91 POSTS

Thank you for your reply. Actually the battery terminals are a weird box shape. I'm going to try to grip the end of the threads on the bolt with vice grips and use a hand wrench to try to get that bolt off before I use a hacksaw. While I have been waiting for daylight I've had a lot of time to think. The guy I bought it from had taken the factory radio/CD player out and put a cheap radio/CD player in it the day before I bought it. I was using it Friday on my 250-mile round trip and I'm not sure I turned it off. Normally that shouldn't matter depending on how he hooked it up. I had an 1989 Ford Motorhome last year and I left the radio on and just turned the key off. I had a drained battery the next day. When I had to give this vehicle some gas to keep it running I immediately thought of a weak battery. Been there before. I figure if he swapped radios he most likely swapped batteries too. A friend was with me and said give it gas the next time you try to start it. I have never ever had to give any of my vehicle's gas when starting it. Okay, one hour until daylight. Time to make some coffee, get dressed, and gather my tools. Thank again!

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 3:02 AM

KLHUDOCK64

MEMBER
91 POSTS

Well, I got the terminals off with a rubber mallet and a big screw driver. Then there was a bolt holding the battery in place. Swapped batteries it started right up. Did the load test you recommended and didn't notice anything unusual. I checked the date on the battery. 02/17 so 4 years old it was time for a change anyways. Big note to self: Turn radio off. Lol. I love this site. It amazes me that I can get questions answered by mechanics for free. You guys are awesome!

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:38 AM

STEVE W.

MECHANIC
13,577 POSTS

Okay, yours has the earlier version that looks like these. Those bolts can be replaced if needed as can the ends using about the same process as above. If the radio was just replaced it could be connected wrong and drained the battery. If you have a second vehicle you could pull the battery and take it to be tested, some parts stores do that free. If you think it has a constant drain there are ways to test for those.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Image (Click to make bigger)

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:51 AM

STEVE W.

MECHANIC
13,577 POSTS

Well that was fast. Good to hear it worked out so well. You might want to test it for parasitic draw anyway, just to rule that out.

SPONSORED LINKS

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:52 AM

KLHUDOCK64

MEMBER
91 POSTS

I sure will after I thaw out, lol. I normally park out back but I parked out front we are getting tons of snow. School was cancelled. I hustled around this morning as I didn't want to be stuck in a snowstorm and if I need to get someplace I can.

Image (Click to make bigger)

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 7:44 AM

STEVE W.

MECHANIC
13,577 POSTS

Yeah, it started snowing here about 9:00 and is still going, got to love upstate NY. If you want to save some aggravation many of the parts stores have a tester they can use to check the battery, charging system and at least show you what those are doing. Some use a tester like this one, which does a great job to tell you how good the electrical system is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqgJHLQSQP4 Takes a few minutes but it can show quite a bit.

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 8:59 AM

KLHUDOCK64

MEMBER
91 POSTS

Thank you for the info. I will definitely invest in one.

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:41 AM

ASEMASTER6371

MECHANIC
52,797 POSTS

Good evening,

I would start at basics and test the battery. I attached some guides for you to follow for the testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

I also attached the wiring diagram for the starter for you as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Roy

REMOVAL
The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) (Fig. 14). Refer to label on PDC cover for relay location.
1. Remove PDC cover.
2. Remove relay from PDC.
3. Check condition of relay terminals and PDC connector terminals for damage or corrosion. Repair if necessary before installing relay.
4. Check for pin height (pin height should be the same for all terminals within the PDC connector). Repair if necessary before installing relay.

INSTALLATION
1. Refer to Power Distribution Center (PDC) cover for starter relay location.
2. Install relay to PDC.
3. Install cover to PDC.

Images (Click to make bigger)