Battery drains down overnight

With the fuse removed there is no current flow in that leg. With the fuse in and the radio removed there is the 470 mil flow. This would indicate there is something in the instrument cluster drawing this phantom current. Stupid question, where is the control for the instrument cluster or do I have to remove the entire cluster? Right now the dashboard is open due to having removed the radio. I am thinking about just putting a switch in to control the power to the instrument cluster and putting the radio constant 12v on another ckt. What do you think?

Oh, what is "in left seat harn" at junction "s266"? I had not thought of this being the problem.
John

Roy, I have done all of that and narrowed it down to fuse 19 which feeds the RDO/Batt ckt. I have disconnected the radio and there was an aftermarket CD player on that ckt and I have disconnected that. This confuses me for the past 20 years everything has worked fine and then one mysterious night I had a dead battery. I replaced the battery and that did not solve the problem, then I replaced the alternator for this was causing the digital odometer and trip indicator along with the radio freq indicator and clock to have what I call a twinkling of the display. I had the same thing in a Caravan and replacing the alternator solved the twinking problem but the battery still drained overnight. I started investigating by removing the battery cable and check the ignition off state and saw the 470 mill current draw and by checking each fuse ckt I came down to fuse 19. Removing the radio and an associated CD player did not solve the problem. Now looking at the wiring diagram you sent, the only thing left is the hook up to the instrument cluster and "front seat harn". What is this front seat harn and can it be disconnected? I guess I will look under the seat and see if there is a connector. I know there must be a connector to a sensor that senses when the seat belt is engaged. And I will look for that.
John

My bad, I was interpreting the diagram incorrectly. This might be a location definition for junction 266 showing all items are in the "left seat harness" where ever that might be. My climate control is the old fashoned knob adjust not electronic control. I have eliminated the radio so this leaves the instrument cluster. I would assume this has an electronic control for all and I guess this would be IN the instrument panel. I will look into how this is connected at least there is no flexible cable going up to the speedometer to disconnect.
John

It is the label S266 in your diagram in the vertical line between the fuse and the instrument cluster. Oh, I will definately go and check the AC Control Head. Thanks,
John

Well the gremlin seems to have left my car overnight. I started to check the temperature control head and the stand by current draw has dropped to 70 mils. I went ahead and removed the connectors going to the temperature control panel one at a time and the current draw remained at 70 mils. I even disconnected the lights on this module and still 70 mils. Tonight I plan on leaving the fuses in as normal and see if the battery can sustain this 70 mil draw. This is a lot better than the 470 I started with. I will keep you posted but I really do not know what fixed the problem if it is fixed. Thanks for the assistance oh now to put my dash board back together.
John

Roy, I thank you for your assistance with this problem. Well, I did some investigating and did not find the problem What I did was place a light bulb (back up bulb) in series e with the fuse. This was when current was being drawn it would light the bulb and alert me to that fact. The bulb was big enough to easily handle the ckt current draw. I also changed out the radio and the bulb comes on at about 1/4 brilliance. This I expected. Oh, when I first hooked up everything and the radio was not on the bulb would show a pulsating current draw. On for a second and off for a second. Before I inserted the bulb I had an amp meter in its place and it showed there was a 470 mil amp draw. Now with this jerry-rig where I can easily monitor the phantom current draw. I am going to leave this monitoring set up in place for a week or so and see if the phantom comes back to haunt me. I will let you know of any more happenings.
Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

All in all I do not know what is causing the 470 mil current draw when all is turned off.

Roy,

It has been a month since I last communicated with you. Well, it looks like the instrument cluster was the problem. I got one from a large salvage company who goes by three initials and put it in the car. The phantom current draw went away along with the 470 mil amp pulse. Now only a few days will tell if this really solved my problem. Thanks for all of the help in solving this problem. Oh and to boot the instrument cluster came out of an S10 and it has the gear selection up on the cluster where my Jimmy SLS did not have this.

Well Roy, the sun is up on a new day and the old problem is still there. I tried to start old SUV this morning and the battery is almost dead and the SUV would not start. I will get back to trouble shooting the problem and let you know what I find.

I replaced the battery in November along with the alternator.