Welcome back:
Try the link that helps locate the circuit related to the draw. If we can identify the circuit, then I can start pinpointing possible issues based on wiring schematics. Also, keep in mind a bad diode in the alternator can do the same thing. They are to allow power to flow one direction. When bad, they will allow power to reverse to ground and drain the battery.
Here are the specs specific to your vehicle when checking for a parasitic draw:
Ignition-Off Draw. 0.005 to 0.025 amperes
Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) Table
Radio. 1 to 3 milliamperes
Audio Power Amplifier. Up to 1 milliamperes
Central Timer Module (CTM). 500 milliamperes (1.0 ma)
Remote Keyless Entry (RKE). 2.5 milliamperes
Interior/Brake Lamp. 2 - 4 milliamperes
Note: All modules in table above, have no amp draw after timer is out, except the CTM 1.0 ma.
Milliampere = ma
Let me know if you have other questions and what you find when you try that link.
Joe
Monday, March 25th, 2019 AT 6:24 PM