What was fixed that didn't help? Are there any other issues besides the battery drain?
Do you have any aftermarket items like remote start or alarms on it, or a different radio?
The old standby test was to connect an ammeter in between the negative battery post and the cable, normal reading would be very low, less than 60 milliamps or so, then start pulling fuses until the draw went away, then you looked at the circuit that fuse feeds and traced out the problem. It still works, but on the modern vehicles that have high amperage fuses that feed the lower circuits you need to be sure to start with the lower amp fuses and work your way up.
A better method uses a good multi-meter to measure the voltage drop across the fuses and see which one is active when it shouldn't be. As even faster method involves the use of a thermal camera, you simply look for the warm spots with the vehicle shut off.
Reading this might give an idea or two:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight
This video shows the way to use a meter to measure the current across the fuse without removing them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRcj1fQcWwU
link to the conversion charts for the various fuse types.
https://www.powerprobe.com/fuse-voltage-drop-charts
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Sunday, February 2nd, 2020 AT 12:10 PM